Name of the restaurant: Orleans and York Deli.
Concept: It's a new downtown outpost of the Inglewood sandwich shop where they serve New Orleans-style po'boys alongside New York-style hero sandwiches. In addition to the sandwiches, there's dirty rice, cobbler, banana pudding, plastic cups full of pickles, Cajun potato salad and Zapps potato chips. On every table or counter, a bottle of Red Rooster Louisiana hot sauce.
What dish represents the restaurant and why: The shrimp po'boy or the Orleans O.G. muffaletta. For the po'boy, the fried shrimp, most the size of golf balls, are layered with shredded lettuce and tomato. The bread, crisp, chewy and slathered generously with mayonnaise, turns into a sponge by the time you're halfway through the sandwich - just the way it should. It is the NOLA po'boy you've been missing, and most likely dreaming about.
And as for the Orleans O.G. muffaletta, they've got it right, minus the bread. It's the same roll as the po'boy, packed with mortadella, salami, capocollo, Swiss, provolone and an olive salad that consists of whole kalamata olives, slices of pimento olives, pickled carrots, celery and cauliflower. The bread, split rather than cut in half, doesn't quite make it all around the fixin's. You'll want to make sure you've got plenty of napkins nearby.
Who's at the next table: Police officers and firemen sit outside sipping regular Cokes in between bites of shrimp po'boy sandwiches, and all varieties of county workers with badges attached to lanyards around their necks are eating everything from fried salmon platters with fries to turkey sandwiches.
Appropriate for: Any time you're craving a sandwich the size of your forearm, or need a real taste of New Orleans. The line can stretch onto the sidewalk but it moves quickly, so you can still consider it a quick lunch.
Service: When a woman walks around the restaurant offering free samples of sandwiches to diners and those waiting in line, the only appropriate way to describe the service is the best ever. Mid-bite into your po'boy, you're offered a three-inch muffaletta, with a smile.
What you're drinking: Dr. Brown's, Fanta or Boylan soda.
Info: 333 S. Spring St., Los Angeles, (213) 687-0400, www.orleansandyorkdeli.com/.