Mother Dough in Los Feliz

A charcuterie platter is one of the starters on the menu at Mother Dough.  (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

Waiter Clay Sandell serves wine at the restaurant, a narrow brick-walled space.  (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

Jen Sachs eats a slice of a Margherita pizza, made with San Marzano tomatoes, bufala mozzarella, basil, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, extra-virgin olive oil and sea salt.  (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

One of the desserts on the menu is oven-roasted pears with chocolate shavings, creme fraiche and hazelnut liqueur.  (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

The restaurant on Hollywood Boulevard was designed by the chef, who also acted as construction foreman.  (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)