Aburiya Toranoko in Little Tokyo

Head chef Hisaharu Kawabe puts the finishing touches on sushi.  (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

The early bar crowd sits below a mural painted by a tattoo artist.  (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

A baby block of sesame tofu is crowned with Santa Barbara sea urchin roe, topped by a dab of wasabi and served with a sweet sake and soy reduction sauce.  (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

A skinny communal table runs down the middle of the small space, with a series of black leather booths hugging one wall.  (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Seafood okonomiyaki is a Japanese-style pancake with shrimp and squid.  (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Homemade green tea pudding is topped with a light caramel sauce.  (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)