The minute I tasted this terrific Pouilly Fumé from Régis Minet, I wanted oysters. Not just a half dozen but at least a couple dozen, chilled, naked and preferably Kumomotos. Minet's old-vine Sauvignon Blanc picks up a stony minerality and bracing acidity that would be perfect with most things from the raw bar. You can taste lime and grapefruit, too, in this intense, nervous white.
It's also a fine value for a wine of this quality.
Region: Loire Valley
Price: From $18 to $23
What it goes with: Oysters and clams on the half shell, crab, seafood paella.
Where to find it: Du Vin Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (310) 855-1161, http://www.du-vin.com; Lincoln Fine Wines in Venice, (310) 392-7816, http://www.lincolnfinewines.com; L.A. Wine Co. in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-9463, http://www.lawineco.com; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, http://www.missionwines.com; the Wine Club in Santa Ana, (714) 835-6485, http://www.thewineclub.com; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles (310) 479-3731, http://www.winehouse.com.