After decades of restaurants from the Drago brothers, this one on the Sunset Strip gets the important things right.
8741 W. Sunset Blvd. (near Sherbourne Drive), West Hollywood, (310) 657-1182, http://www.osteriadrago.com
Appetizers, $8-$26; pastas, $14-$30; main courses, $26-$42; desserts, $8.
Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday, dinner 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Credit cards accepted. Beer and wine. Valet parking.