Dining details: Marché Moderne

Marché Moderne

Rating: ***

Location: South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa; (714) 434-7900.

Ambience: Smart, modern French bistro at South Coast Plaza in the old Troquet space with an outdoor patio and wood-burning oven.

Service: Warm and professional, from experienced servers.

Price: Dinner appetizers, $7 to $16; main courses, $20 to $39; desserts, $7 to $9.

Best dishes: Scallop tagine, langoustine with wild ramps and trumpet royale mushrooms, cold foie gras with pineapple, duck terrine, roasted duck breast, braised short ribs or braised rabbit in the style of coq au vin, American Kobe flatiron steak frites, upside down peach gâteau, rose petal ice cream with arlette cookie.

Wine list: Small, but nice mix of French and California bottles, very fairly priced for a restaurant of this caliber. Corkage fee, $10.

Best table: One along the banquette.

Details: Open for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m and dinner 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 11:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Sunday. Full bar. Lot parking at South Coast Plaza (enter Nordstrom structure); also valet parking on first level of parking structure.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. : Outstanding on every level. : Excellent. : Very good. : Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.