Mike Prado and his son Samuel have lunch at Afghan Express as co-owner Najeeb Shinwari walks by. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)
Toor banjan is eggplant braised with tomatoes, tempered with onion and brightened with yogurt sauce. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)
Bolani is a samosa-like turnover filled with potatoes, cilantro and a green chile chutney. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)
Owner Najeeb Shinwari cooks bolani. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)
Kabuli palau is tender pieces of whole lamb shank under rice topped by carrots, raisins, almonds and pistachio. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)
