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Eugenio Montale
Market Watch: The renaissance of the Italian lemon
Market Watch: The renaissance of the Italian lemon

Lemons are most in demand in summer, for making lemonade, serving with cocktails and squeezing on fish. There's a little bit of a disconnect with production, which is concentrated, from different growing areas, in the fall to spring months; but there's still plenty of supply throughout the summer from coastal districts. Most commercial production is of the standard Eureka and Lisbon varieties, but in the last decade a few farmers market and specialty growers have planted Italian varieties, famed for their romantic history and intensely aromatic rinds. Most of the lemons used in the United States until the 1890s were imported from Italy, and before then it was controversial whether...

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