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Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival
Ricardo Zarate: at Cochon, at Coachella and in your bookstore
Ricardo Zarate: at Cochon, at Coachella and in your bookstore

On a recent afternoon in downtown Los Angeles, Ricardo Zarate sat sipping from a paper cup of coffee in the lobby of the Biltmore Hotel. The setting — the hotel opened in 1923 with travertine walls, crystal chandeliers, marble fountains and frescoed mural ceilings painted by an artist who worked on the Vatican — was not accidental, but a homecoming of sorts for the Peruvian-born chef. Zarate is best known for his restaurants Mo-Chica, Picca and Paiche, but his first job in Los Angeles was at a little Japanese joint a few blocks from the hotel, also now closed. And his first L.A. residence, back in 2003, was actually at the Biltmore, where he lived for six months, while he...

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