Seasons Restaurant

A chef's years-long obsession with XO sauce

A chef's years-long obsession with XO sauce

Chefs are by nature obsessive. It's a personality trait that tends to fit them, like their chef's whites, that knife collection, maybe some latent pyromania. You could argue that chef Sang Yoon has been better than most at channeling his kitchen fixations. He built his first restaurant, Father's Office, out of a network of them (the hamburger, craft beers, no ketchup). His second restaurant, Lukshon, allowed him to obsess about noodles, often repeating the same dish (dan dan mien, ramen) over and over, shifting one component, then another, sometimes for months, as if he were searching for some kind of Platonic ideal in his test...

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