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10 places to get uni, beyond the sushi bar
10 places to get uni, beyond the sushi bar

Now that foie gras is just a delicious ghost of our culinary past, uni is the delicacy with top billing on every trend-conscious menu in L.A. It’s a strange food, when you think about it. How did anyone know to open up a spiny sea urchin and feast on its goopy orange gonads? Because of its unusual texture, color and provenance, there are many reasonable people who are afraid to eat uni. But these reasonable people have no idea what they’re missing. Good uni is as creamy as custard, and it melts with no resistance, releasing a rich, complex, unforgettable flavor full of cool sweetness and gentle salt. There are few foods more subtly exquisite. You can — and should...

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