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10 great Italian restaurants
10 great Italian restaurants

Los Angeles has never been rich in the sort of red-sauce Italian restaurants so common on the other coast, but it has always been notable for the other kind: restaurants in which Italian cooking and the idea of fine dining were not incompatible. It could be argued that the culture of New York’s expense-account Italian kitchens began with Romeo Salta’s Chianti here in the 1930s, that Perino’s led the way for luxury Italian style in the 1960s and that Rex and Valentino established U.S. alta cucina in the 1970s. And the cultural tradition has never faltered: These days, in some parts of town, you’re never more than a few blocks from a temperature-controlled pasta lab...

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