Russian Nights on Wilshire

“Vodka?” the tuxedoed waiter thrusts his hands in the air for emphasis. “ Of course we have vodka! This is Russian restaurant.”

The old El Rey theater on Wilshire Boulevard is Los Angeles’ newest place to eat blini and caviar, sip chilled pepper vodka and observe human society.

On the El Rey stage, which is dramatically draped with thick, red curtains, a violinist and a pianist play virtuoso arrangements of old Russian songs. The violinist plays so skillfully and so soulfully you wonder if he once was a member of a great Russian orchestra.

At a banquet-size table, under one of the room’s crystal chandeliers, sits a group of friends, mostly 60 and older. “Oh, my cholesterol!” one woman exclaims as her chicken Kiev is set before her.

Spontaneously, people move to the beat, at first in their seats, and then on their feet. As the music stops, everyone goes back to their dinners. There is Ukrainian-style eggplant, pureed with plenty of garlic; hot borscht; a lovely platter of smoked fish and rounds of bread spread with red caviar; Siberian duck; lamb or pork or chicken shashlik , the marinated meat cooked on skewers.

It’s more expensive and not as delicious as what you get in the Russian restaurants of Brooklyn’s Brighton Beach, but the food is fine, nevertheless.

Toward the end of the evening, one couple from the over-60 set ventures out onto the empty dance floor. Slowly, they sway to the beat in a passionate Russian embrace. A sweet scene.

El Rey Restaurant and Nightclub, 5517 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 930-0516. Entrees $12-$22.50.

First Impressions moves to Sunday Calendar beginning Aug. 4.