Chez No More

In a few, brief weeks, Chez Gilles--the former Chez Helene in Beverly Hills--has morphed into Bistro K. The name is a play on bistroquet, which means casual French bistro. A new paint job and built-in caramel-colored banquettes bordering the two diminutive dining rooms have given the sweetly eccentric house a much-needed sprucing up. Voila--an adorable little Beverly Hills bistro. If this were Paris, the ladies who lunch would bring their be-ribboned poodles to table too.

Bistro K’s chef is Lionel Deniaud, a Frenchman who is making a return to L.A. after a stint cooking in New York, most recently at Ici. He replaces Gilles Epie, who left his namesake restaurant after differences with owner Jean Denoyer over the menu and concept. For his first menu, Deniaud has put together updated French bistro fare at moderate prices, for Beverly Hills at least.

To start, you can get a nice salad of Belgian endive tossed with Roquefort and toasted walnuts, asparagus in a plum tomato vinaigrette or steamed black mussels in a broth perfumed with ginger. And to continue, a classic entrecote with Bernaise sauce and, of course, pommes frites. There’s also sauteed calf’s liver with shallots and roasted chicken in thyme jus with garlic mashed potatoes. Or, something lighter, perhaps the steamed white fish in a slightly Oriental fashion with shiitake mushrooms and baby bok choy.

A big plus, too, is in the warm, affable attentions of the French maitre d’, quite a change from the aloof service of the previous team.

Bistro K arrives just in time for outdoor dining in the rose-bordered garden in front.

BE THERE

Bistro K, 267 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 276-1558. Open daily for dinner; Monday through Saturday for lunch. Valet parking. Appetizers $4.50 to $7.50; main courses $12 to $18.