Lighter Than Snow

If only 100-year-old recipes could talk. On second thought, perhaps they can.

This lemon pudding recipe appeared in the Women’s Pages of an 1898 issue of the Los Angeles Sunday Times Illustrated Magazine Section. We decided to find out whether the headline (“Recipes Up to Date”) was true to its word.

In re-creating what one contributor described as a “yellow puff ball,” we discovered similarities to the dish called snow, which was an English favorite from Renaissance times through the 18th century. Emily Ford’s recipe has the same old-fashioned feel as snow, but it is lighter (and more up to date), because it doesn’t contain cream.

Ford called for beating the last two tablespoons of sugar into the egg whites when stiff. We found it best to add the sugar midway through to avoid a grainy texture.

“Serve with cake or crackers,” Ford advised, “as this pudding is rich, though so delicate.” We think you’ll agree.

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LEMON PUDDING

A hot yolk mixture is poured into the beaten egg whites, which should heat the whites enough to kill pathogens. However, to be absolutely sure, substitute pasteurized egg whites, which are available in most supermarkets.

4 eggs

4 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons boiling water

Juice and zest of 1 large lemon

Separate egg whites and yolks, and beat yolks until smooth. Add 2 tablespoons sugar, boiling water and finely grated lemon zest and lemon juice.

Cook in top of double boiler over simmering water, stirring occasionally, until like thick cream, about 4 minutes.

Beat egg whites until foamy. Add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and continue to beat until egg whites are stiff. When mixture looks like a meringue, beat it into hot yolk mixture, which will cook it sufficiently to keep the whites from falling.

Refrigerate.

5 servings. Each serving:

102 calories; 50 mg sodium; 170 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0 fiber.