In the Kitchen: The enabler edition

Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times

Fellow indulgers,

We believe in eating a healthful diet, rich in a wide variety of foods. But as Julia Child once advised: “Moderation in all things, including moderation.” And so in this week’s newsletter, we're diving off the deep end of the diet spectrum. Doughnuts? Chocolate chip cookies? Biscuits? Wicked delicious drinks? Let’s just call this our enabler edition. You can be good tomorrow.

And be on the lookout for Saturday's Counter Intelligence newsletter, with stories about the dining scene and Jonathan Gold's restaurant reviews. 

— Russ Parsons

Doughnuts at home? D'OH!

Is there a more indulgent food than the doughnut? Homer Simpson and a station full of cops would argue no. And that goes double when you’re talking about homemade doughnuts. Think they’re out of  your range? Test Kitchen Director Noelle Carter says you can easily make a batch of homemade cake doughnuts in less than an hour.

Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times

In the chips

As much as I love doughnuts, my personal Achilles' heel is the chocolate chip cookie. I am not safe when they are in the house. I can hear them calling, even from the freezer. How do you make the best chocolate chip cookie? It’s all a matter of following a few simple instructions. You know we’re all over this. And we’ve got recipes for five different cookies to tempt you further.

Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times

Biscuits in the oven

Is there a better breakfast than freshly baked biscuits, slathered with butter? Even plain old bacon and eggs shine in a different light when accompanied by good biscuits. Some regard perfectly baked biscuits as a litmus test for good cooks — you either have the touch or you don’t. But it’s something you can quite easily do at home. Buttermilk biscuits with burnt orange honey butter, anyone?

Los Angeles Times

Chilling with a Negroni

Because you can’t live on biscuits alone (or cookies, or even doughnuts), we’ve also got a handy video of how to make the hottest drink around — the Negroni. Deputy Food Editor Jenn Harris, our cocktail queen, shows you how. Campari, sweet vermouth and your favorite gin — the pretty glass is optional but advised.

Jenn Harris

(Tamarind) Pulp nonfiction

Too much fun? Relax, we’ve got stuff that’s good for you too. Like this paste to use on salmon skewers. Adapted from a recipe by chef Marcus Samuelsson, it uses tamarind pulp to add a nice tart zing. Never used tamarind pulp? Don’t worry, Noelle has a video to show you how.

Los Angeles Times

Your corny pun here

And what about corn? Good for you or an indulgence? Why not both? We’ve got some hints and a video on making sure you get the best (without making your farmer crazy), a great tip on grilling (don’t bother removing the silk before, it’ll come off easily after) and a dozen terrific recipes.

Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times


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