Food

Critic's Choice restaurants

  • Where to go clam digging among L.A. restaurants
    Where to go clam digging among L.A. restaurants

    Once I had dinner at my friend Christine's house in Paris. Three women and a big bowl of raw clams. She gave us each a knife and told me to watch for the moment the clam shell opened a crack, then plunge the knife in and open. She and her friend Jeanne talked a mile a minute. For me, to...

  • Summer beer gardens: Three picks in downtown L.A.
    Summer beer gardens: Three picks in downtown L.A.

    On summer nights, who doesn't love a beer garden? Sitting outside at long communal tables, tucking into juicy sausages, hoisting a stein of beer. Though you can now buy your own traditional beer garden tables and benches, somehow having six or eight people in your backyard doesn't a beer garden...

  • The ultimate sea urchin experience
    The ultimate sea urchin experience

    Not everybody appreciates sea urchin, but Fishing With Dynamite, Providence and Il Grano come through for those who do. Prepare for some intense sea funk.

  • Critic's Choice: Flavors of Spain that are anything but plain
    Critic's Choice: Flavors of Spain that are anything but plain

    Ask anybody about their favorite Italian restaurants and the list can be long. Spanish? Not so much, because Los Angeles is not exactly awash in places to eat gazpacho, escalivada and tortilla española. But we do have a handful of very good Spanish restaurants where you can relax over...

  • Critic's Choice: A season of sun — and mozzarella
    Critic's Choice: A season of sun — and mozzarella

    Osteria Mozza, Obika and RivaBella are among the Los Angeles restaurants taking advantage of the varieties of the milky white cheese.

  • Critic's Choice: Brunches that can begin a civilized day
    Critic's Choice: Brunches that can begin a civilized day

    On these beautiful, lazy mornings of late spring, brunch beckons like the promised land. Bring a couple of good friends (or your mom), sit in the sunshine and catch up over a relaxed meal. We're not talking giant buffets but carefully prepared, seasonal dishes. I don't indulge often, but...

  • Critic's Choice: Chicken dinners that entice you to leave the roost
    Critic's Choice: Chicken dinners that entice you to leave the roost

    Roasted, wood-roasted or jidori style, these delicious dishes come with diverse flavors and are served in different settings.

  • Enjoying flatbreads from many culinary angles
    Enjoying flatbreads from many culinary angles

    Three restaurants around L.A. that serve fantastic flatbreads.

  • Critic's Choice: Three divine chocolate creations
    Critic's Choice: Three divine chocolate creations

    Remember when you couldn't go to a restaurant without coming across yet another flourless chocolate cake? And when that trend finally passed, the chocolate fashion became precious, over-elaborate tastings of this and that. I'm glad that's finally passé. When something is good, you want...

  • Critic's Choice: Cool, creative ceviche
    Critic's Choice: Cool, creative ceviche

    Is ceviche poised to become as popular as sushi or sashimi in L.A.? It could happen. I'm thinking Ricardo Zarate is onto something as the Peruvian chef (Mo-Chica, Picca) gets ready to open a ceviche concept called Paiche. Raw seafood marinated in lime juice with chiles and cilantro and other...

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