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Dining and Drinking

Taus Authentic review: Chef Michael Taus still has it

I first became a fan of Michael Taus' food when he opened Zealous in Elmhurst; it was 1993, and Taus was producing French-informed, globally influenced dishes that were masterpieces of clean, harmonious flavors. The best option was his degustation, six courses for $35. Ah, the good old days. A bit more than 20 years later, and not that much has changed. Certainly Taus' cooking style jibes with my '93 memories, though $35 now will get you an entree and maybe a glass of wine. But much has happened in between. Taus spent six years in the western suburbs before relocating Zealous to a then-remote corner of River North. It seemed less than an ideal location swap — foot...