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Dining and Drinking

What We're Into: Ciro's avocado salsa; escargot congee; Button Mash's tamarind-intense wings

What We're Into: Ciro's avocado salsa; escargot congee; Button Mash's tamarind-intense wings

Avocado salsa: When I am out of town for longer than a day or two, the place I start to long for, even more than Rustic Canyon or Jitlada, is Ciro's, an old-school Mexican-American restaurant in Boyle Heights. Ciro's is best known for its flautas probably, crisply fried cylinders of happiness that taste completely homemade. It's a place where you go for the cheese enchiladas, the big bowls of chicken soup, or the plates of carnitas, although they are definitely in the crunchy mom's-cooking mode instead of the more fashionable D.F. confit style.

But the highlight of a meal at Ciro's may come even before the meal is actually served:...

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