Chefs: Hold the egg, please; not every dish needs one on top
Not that anyone’s counting, but we may be in our sixth or seventh year of the Egg on Everything fad in Los Angeles restaurants, and, unlike kale, bacon or hamachi crudo, it shows no signs of going away — not with the lines at Egg Slut approaching the length of a city block at the Grand Central Market on a Sunday morning. A well-poached egg, made ridiculously easy by even the most rudimentary immersion circulator, is by far the cheapest luxury a chef can bestow upon his or her customers. It is the ingredient that diner cooks and Michelin-starred chefs share. A yolk, pretty and bright, looks good on the plate.
Sauce gribiche, made with minced pickles and hard-boiled eggs, does not, in fact, go with everything. Deviled-egg sauce has no reason to exist. A properly made croque monsieur is nearly always better than its egg-bearing spouse, the croque madame. It should not be necessary to memorize the phrase “sin huevos” in a dozen languages. If you routinely plonk fried eggs on innocent cheeseburgers, you had better be Australian.
“It’s ovaries throwing down,”’ she said.
The era of Egg on Everything is not all it’s been cracked up to be.
Eat your way across L.A.
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