Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews the Church Key, where a retro-future dining adventure on the Sunset Strip comes along on carts.
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews Mari Vanna. The new branch in Los Angeles spikes simple Russian cooking with perfection.
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews Girasol. The Studio City restaurant by Chris Jacobson benefits from his travels abroad and his Southern California roots.
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews Fishing With Dynamite. The wait can be daunting at David LeFevre's newish Manhattan Beach eatery Fishing With Dynamite, but it's also worth it.
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews Bucato. Chef Evan Funke combines strong pungencies and seasonal vegetables with fresh pasta at his restaurant in Culver City's Helms complex.
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews Marugame Monzo. The Little Tokyo noodle house is at its best with its traditional udon dishes. Its more modern varieties miss the point.
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews Allumette. The Echo Park restaurant is chef Miles Thompson's follow-up to his pop-up Vagrancy Project.
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews Connie and Ted's. The West Hollywood clam shack conjures Rhode Island on the West Coast, be it with clams of all kinds, lobster cooked just right or oysters treated with reverence.
Muddy Leek, from Julie Retzlaff and Whitney Flood, is an inviting restaurant with an Earth-friendly bent. Jonathan Gold reviews.
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Littlefork takes a big-eats turn north
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews Littlefork. Full flavors of New England and Montreal (yes, lots of maple), combined with a Chicagoan's cocktail magic, and all for a few Yankee dollars.
Counter Intelligence: Jonathan Gold reviews Hunan Mao in Rosemead: Fiery chiles and giant steamed fish heads are on the authentically Hunanese menu. The heat is on.
Hinoki & the Bird is a modern, luxuriously designed Century City restaurant from David Myers that is part Bond-villain lair, part garden party. Jonathan Gold reviews its pan-Asian cooking and finds its high-end ingredients leave an impression.
Review: Hostaria del Piccolo near Venice Beach gets some things very right (the costicine). Jonathan Gold finds consistency is an issue, though.
Bar Amá restaurant review: Josef Centeno's new Tex-Mex cantina does Tex-Mex its own way, queso included. Jonathan Gold checks it out for Counter Intelligence.
The newly redesigned Spago in Beverly Hills modernizes the dining room and brings a fresh take on Japanese cooking as it plays down its tasting menu in favor of an Italian-style menu structure.
Chef Ari Taymor is cooking like no one else in L.A. at his downtown restaurant Alma, which started in pop-ups. And, oh, those butter-soaked carrots.
Tasty Dining in San Gabriel can bring tears to the eyes. That's what you get for ordering the chicken wing griddle 'very' spicy. The restaurant serves Chinese food from Wuhan, a culinary center in Hubei province.
MessHall restaurant review: It might not be a destination restaurant, but its glammed up dinner-party food and summer camp theme set the stage for a good time.
At Laurel Hardware, chef Mario Alberto, lately of Lazy Ox and Chimu, brings an inventiveness to this late-night haven that sometimes nails it, sometimes doesn't quite.
Tom Bergin's Tavern on Fairfax is fascinating since Brandon Boudet took over, with rethought Irish American bar food and, if you're lucky, a killer jambalaya.
Plan Check Kitchen and Bar has a modernist take on the classic burger, engineering it to a different level. Other items on the menu are a mix of good and bad.
With its pan-Asian dishes that include the popular Singaporean chili crab, Starry Kitchen has set up shop as an evening pop-up shop at Tiara in the fashion district in downtown Los Angeles.
At Superba Snack Bar, the cauliflower T-bone grabs attention, but the playful cooking hews Italian. Jason Neroni and Pitfire's Paul Hibler are behind it.
Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton looked to the past as they took fine dining forward. Farm to table. Exacting standards. They influenced chefs everywhere.
Steampunk, stale L.A. scene ideas — it's the latest from chef Josef Antonishek. It's best the closer he gets to Russian cooking, but then there's the 'goachetta.'
The atmosphere at Sycamore Kitchen is relaxed, but make no mistake: The husband-and-wife team behind the restaurant obsesses over every detail of every dish.
Shunji Japanese Cuisine, from chef Shunji Nakao, is in what looks like a big chili bowl but is upscale and inventive, with special attention paid to vegetables.
Red Hill is the latest step in the Brooklynization of Echo Park, a modern restaurant to go with the vintage clothing stores and well-frequented boutiques. Jonathan Gold reviews.
The Pikey isn't a gastropub. It's just a pub. It's got three beers on tap, food kicked up a notch with market-fresh ingredients and a little imagination, and an atmosphere even an Iron Maiden roadie could appreciate.
At Maison Giraud in Pacific Palisades, the croissants are as good if not better than ones you'd eat in Paris. Alain Giraud may be the last true French chef standing in Los Angeles.
A California law against foie gras goes into effect Sunday. As some restaurants host farewell dinners, a gaggle of chefs, farmers and connoisseurs sees it as a feather-headed intrusion on culinary freedom.
Bizarra Capital in Whittier is a Mexican-flavored gastropub, the newest project of Ricardo Diaz, who is also behind Cooks Tortas and Dorados in Monterey Park and Guisados in Boyle Heights. Featured dishes are
At Umamicatessen in downtown, L.A., a wealth of imagination is on the menu at the multi-kitchen restaurant: Rethink that pastrami sandwich, a bourbon cocktail, the PB&J.
Wine is important at Andrew Kirschner's new restaurant, but so is the food, starting with the lardon- and chile-laced popcorn appetizer. From there, it's a serious but playful mix of wood-fired small-plate temptations.
Cooks County, the new restaurant from chef Daniel Mattern and pastry chef Roxana Jullapat, may seem more of the moment than a modernist place like Ink. It feels like a wine bar but functions more as a restaurant, with actual appetizers and main courses. The list of farmers at the bottom of the menu rolls on as long as the credits at the end of a Spielberg movie.