Rereading the Greek classics

GREEK cuisine, so often characterized here in L.A. as kind of, you know, “Mediterranean,” is a unique blend of ancient, Byzantine, Baltic, Turkish and Venetian influences.

And if you look a little more closely at some of Greece’s best loved dishes -- moussaka (eggplant and lamb casserole), pastitsio (pasta, cheese and meat casserole) and yiouvetsi (meat, orzo and tomato casserole), all seemingly homey baked melanges -- you’ll discover the descendants of noble, even royal dishes. Although they’re as easy to make as mac ‘n’ cheese, the complex, layered creations were originally served for Sunday dinners and special occasions.

Moussaka, almost a cliche as a Greek standard, is actually a relatively new “national” dish, arriving on the Greek mainland only in the 1920s. It was brought, during a time of political upheaval, by Greeks of the eastern regions whose cuisines had, for 2,000 years, been intertwined with the sophisticated, cosmopolitan cuisines of the people of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. These Asia Minor Greeks were urban dwellers and knew French and Italian cooking techniques.

Made of eggplant slices layered with a sauce of ground lamb, it is traditionally topped with a bechamel sauce enriched with eggs. It’s a summer dish, made when eggplant is in season, and usually made the day before serving.

Martha Rose Schulman’s Balkan-style version lightens the topping, using a mixture of yogurt, eggs and kefalotiri cheese (a sheep’s- and goat’s-milk cheese), which is unique, but may be compared to pecorino instead of the traditional bechamel sauce. She also bakes the eggplant instead of frying it, as is traditional. The spicing of this and other moussakas -- cloves, cinnamon, allspice -- speaks of its Byzantine origins.

Yiouvetsi, a casserole of lamb, beef or veal with orzo and tomato, is named for the earthenware baking dish it was traditionally baked and served in.

“I remember my mother would prepare the yiouvetsi early Sunday morning,” recalls Cosmas Kapantzos, owner of Astro Burger on Melrose in Hollywood whose business is American hamburgers, but who makes yiouvetsi for family and friends at home. In Greece when he was growing up, he says, the whole family would drop off the unbaked yiouvetsi at the bakery or fournou on the way to church. “You would pay about five drachmas to have the casserole baked,” he says. “After church my sister and I would stop by the bakery to pick up the casserole and a loaf of fresh baked bread while my mother went home to start preparing lunch.”

A moshari yiouvetsi (veal and pasta casserole) inspired by Kapantzo’s recipe uses orzo, the rice-shaped pasta, and mizithra cheese, a sheep’s- or goat’s-milk cheese that adds a distinct salty flavor. The long baking results in fork-tender veal. White wine in the tomato sauce gives an added dimension, and a garnish of chopped green onion, parsley and mint adds a modern zing.

Like moussaka, pastitsio is a sweet-savory layered dish. Its name is derived from the Italian word pasticcio (hodgepodge), but its origins are with the grand molded timballos of Italy. It’s made with tubular pasta such as penne or elbow macaroni mixed with eggs and kefalotiri cheese. The meat sauce, spiced with cinnamon and cloves, is spread over the pasta and topped with a bechamel-kefalotiri sauce. Our version is adapted from a recipe used by Anne-Marie Olympios, a Belgian-born travel-tour leader whose husband is Greek and whose cooking reflects her international experience. Her use of butter is authentic to the regions of Greece where dairy products dominate and olive trees don’t grow.

Traditionally Greek dishes are served warm or at room temperature rather then hot out of the oven. Each of these casseroles should rest for at least 20 minutes after being removed from the oven to allow them to finish cooking and allow the flavors to blend.

It’s worth a trip to a Greek market for mizithra or kefalotiri cheese. While you’re there, pick up a bottle or two of Greek wine, bread, olives and some honey-sweetened pastry or cookies to serve with your casserole. Otherwise, all you need to accompany these rich one-dish meals is a simple salad: sliced romaine with chopped green onion, olive oil and vinegar, maybe, or a classic combination of sliced tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, Kalamata olives and oregano with an olive oil and vinegar dressing.

Then wish your guests “kali orexi!” -- good appetite!

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Where to get Greek

The following markets have good selections of Greek food products:

Greek House Importing, 7856 E. Firestone Blvd., Downey, (562) 862-1220

Hawthorne Market, 24202 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance, (310) 373-4448

C & K Importing Co., 2771 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 737-2970

GreekShops.com, 2665 30th St., Suite 103, Santa Monica, (310) 581-5059. Products available online and by mail order, or see website for local showroom hours and order pickup. www.greekshops.com

Jons Markets: 1234 N. La Brea Ave., West Hollywood, (323) 962-2429; 1601 N. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 660-0220; 600 E. Colorado Blvd., Glendale, (818) 956-0999; 5311 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 461-9382.

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Moshari yiouvetsi (veal and pasta casserole)

Total time: 2 hours, 30 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6

Note: Adapted from a recipe by Cosmas Kapantzos. Yiouvetsi is the name of the clay pot traditionally used to bake meat and pasta casseroles in Greece. Mizithra is a sheep or goat cheese similar in flavor to Romano cheese and is available in Greek markets.

2 pounds veal stew meat, cut into 1 1/2 -inch cubes

3 teaspoons salt, divided

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, divided

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup grated onion

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 cups strained or canned pureed tomatoes

2 cups veal stock

1 1/2 cups orzo

1/2 cup grated mizithra cheese

1 teaspoon chopped mint

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1/4 cup chopped green onion

1. Season the veal with 1 teaspoon salt and one-fourth teaspoon pepper. Brown the veal in several batches in 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, heavy 5-quart pot, adding additional oil during browning if needed. As the meat browns, remove it from the pan and keep warm.

2. Add the onion to the drippings in the pan and saute until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and saute 1 to 2 more minutes.

3. Stir in the wine. Bring to a simmer and cook 1 minute. Stir in the strained tomatoes, 3 cups water and the veal stock.

4. Add the browned veal with any drippings back into the pot. Bring to a boil. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

5. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons salt and one-half teaspoon pepper. Cover and bake 1 hour.

6. After an hour, add the orzo, stir to combine and bake about 25 to 45 minutes (depending on the pot used) or until most of the liquid is absorbed, stirring after 5 minutes and then stirring 3 or 4 more times during baking to prevent the orzo from clumping.

7. Remove the casserole from the oven and let stand 15 minutes. Sprinkle with the grated mizithra cheese.

8. In a small bowl, combine the chopped mint, parsley and green onion. Serve hot or at room temperature, passing the chopped herbs for sprinkling on top.

Each of 6 servings: 558 calories; 47 grams protein; 50 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 17 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 136 mg. cholesterol; 1,344 mg. sodium.

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Balkan-style moussaka

Total time: 2 hours, 25 minutes

Servings: 6 to 8

Note: From “Ready When You Are” by Martha Rose Shulman. Kefalotiri is a salty sheep’s- and goat’s-milk cheese and is available at selected Greek markets.

2 to 2 1/2 pounds (3 medium or 2 large) eggplant, sliced lengthwise about 1/3 -inch thick

1 pound minced or lean ground lamb or beef

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus additional for greasing

2 medium onions, chopped

2 large garlic cloves, minced or pressed

1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped, with juice, or 1 (14 1/2 ounce) can diced tomatoes, with juice

1 heaping tablespoon

tomato paste

1/2 teaspoon plus 1 pinch sweet paprika, divided

1/4 rounded teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 whole cloves, ground in a mortar

Pinch of ground allspice (or 2 or 3 berries, ground in a mortar)

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 bay leaf

7 eggs, divided

1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 3/4 cups plain yogurt

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup freshly grated kefalotiri cheese

1. Salt the eggplant slices generously and place them in a bowl or colander for 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, cook the lamb (or beef) in a large, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, stirring and breaking up the meat until browned and the fat has rendered, about 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and pour off the fat. Set the meat aside in a bowl. Add a couple of tablespoons of water to the skillet and scrape up any browned bits. Add the scrapings to the meat.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in the skillet over medium heat and add the onions. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

4. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, the browned meat, paprika, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, sugar, bay leaf, salt to taste, and one-half to 1 cup hot water (enough to cover the meat). Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour, stirring occasionally. The mixture should be thick and fragrant. Cook, uncovered, until the liquid is almost gone, about 5 to 10 minutes more.

5. Remove the bay leaf, stir in pepper to taste, and remove from the heat. Taste and adjust for salt (remember, the eggplant will be salty).

6. Cool the mixture slightly, then stir in one beaten egg and the parsley. Heat the oven to 450 degrees.

7. Rinse the eggplant slices and pat dry with paper towels. Place them on baking sheets brushed with olive oil and brush the tops with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned and cooked through. Transfer to a bowl and reduce the oven to 350 degrees.

8. Brush a 3-quart baking or gratin dish with the remaining oil. Make an even layer of half the eggplant over the bottom, and spread on all of the meat sauce in one layer. Top with a layer of the remaining eggplant.

9. Bake the moussaka for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the topping. Beat the remaining 6 eggs and mix them with the yogurt. Season with three-fourths teaspoon of salt (or to taste), pepper (to taste) and a pinch of paprika. Pour over the moussaka.

10. Sprinkle the grated cheese evenly over the topping and bake for an additional 25 to 30 minutes, then place under the broiler for 1 minute or so until light golden brown on top. Watch carefully because it browns quickly. Serve warm.

Each of 8 servings: 308 calories; 23 grams protein; 16 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams fiber; 17 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 226 mg. cholesterol; 797 mg. sodium.

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Pastitsio

Total time: 1 hour, 45 minutes

Servings: 8 to 10

Note: Adapted from a recipe from Anne-Marie Olympios. Kefalotiri cheese can be purchased at Greek markets such as C & K Importing Co. in Los Angeles.

Pasta and meat sauce

3/4 pound penne pasta or

elbow macaroni

2 eggs

1 1/2 cups loosely packed shredded kefalotiri cheese

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 pound lean ground beef or ground lamb

1 (14 1/2 -ounce) can diced

tomatoes with juice

1/4 cup white wine

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black

pepper

1. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water about 11 minutes or until al dente. Drain, place in a large bowl and let cool slightly.

2. In a bowl, lightly beat the whites of the eggs with a fork (save the yolks for the bechamel sauce) and add the cheese. Stir into the pasta.

3. Melt the butter in a large heavy skillet and saute the onion until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the ground meat and cook 5 minutes, until browned, stirring occasionally.

4. Add tomatoes, wine, cinnamon, cloves and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer 15 minutes. Remove the cover and continue to simmer until the juices are reduced, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the meat sauce from the heat and let stand while preparing the bechamel sauce. After the sauce cools a bit, spoon off any excess fat.

Bechamel sauce and assembly

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, plus 1 tablespoon butter for baking dish

1/2 cup flour

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon salt

3 cups milk

1 1/2 cups shredded kefalotiri cheese

2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon dry bread crumbs

2 tablespoons butter, melted

1. Heat one-half cup butter until melted. Whisk in the flour, nutmeg and salt until blended. Cook, stirring 1 minute. Stir in the milk. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. Boil and stir 1 minute.

2. Add the cheese. Heat and stir just until cheese is melted.

3. Blend a little of the heated sauce into the 4 egg yolks and return all to the saucepan. Heat and stir until the sauce thickens slightly and is almost at a simmer. Do not boil.

4. Generously butter a 12-by-2-inch-deep round baking pan or a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish. Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

5. Add the pasta and spread in an even layer, then spread the cooled meat sauce over pasta. Spoon the bechamel sauce over the meat in an even layer.

6. Sprinkle bread crumbs over the sauce and drizzle two tablespoons melted butter over the top.

7. Bake 20 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue to bake 20 to 30 minutes until golden brown.

8. Cool slightly, cut into square pieces and serve.

Each of 10 servings: 537 calories; 28 grams protein; 38 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 30 grams fat; 17 grams saturated fat; 140 mg. cholesterol; 1,027 mg. sodium.