Is it really a magic wand?
It seemed like a cool idea when hand-held blending wands for the home market were introduced in the ‘80s. Unfortunately, they didn’t cast a spell on us: They were awkward to hold, and sometimes they didn’t even make a smooth puree. But a good immersion blender is a dream -- you can puree right in the pot and they’re handy for small-batch work. Fortunately, among today’s new and improved models, some work terrifically.
We tested the four most widely available versions: the Cuisinart SmartStick, the Braun Multiquick, the Russell Hobbs hand blender and the KitchenAid immersion blender. They range in price from $30 to $100. All have 5-foot power cords and three come with additional attachments.
We looked at effectiveness and speed of blending, hand comfort, ease of use and ease of assembly and cleaning. We used each to puree broccoli that had been simmered in broth and to make a smoothie. We also tested them on smaller jobs.
All four made smooth purees, though some took longer. The quickest, and the winner of our test, was the KitchenAid. It’s well designed, and does the best job of blending. Second-place Russell Hobbs is also good at blending but not as easy to assemble or clean. The Braun and Cuisinart each had drawbacks and just weren’t smooth enough operators to make the grade.
*
Baton rouge
The cranberry red KitchenAid Immersion Blender (KHB 100) is a powerful and smartly designed appliance. It’s 16 inches long and has no attachments.
What’s the difference: Your hands are positioned high above a hot sauce or soup. The motor has 9 speeds.
What we thought: This was the best wand for blending -- quick, quiet, with different speeds that allow for more control, less splatter. It was easy to assemble, disassemble and clean. It’s easy to grip, and the power button is comfortably located directly under your fingers.
How much: $50 at Target stores
*
Mr. Versatile
The stainless-steel Russell Hobbs hand blender is a lightweight three-speed blender with lots of useful attachments.
What’s the difference: A digital timer shuts off the blender after 90 seconds so it doesn’t overheat.
What we thought: It’s fast and it blends thoroughly, but it’s a little tricky to put together. It’s the most versatile of the machines we tested, and it had the best attachments, so if you want a multipurpose tool, it’s the one to get. But beware if you’re hard on appliances -- this baby requires care.
How much: $100 at Williams-Sonoma
*
Fast and furious
The white Braun Multiquick (MR 400 HC) is 13 inches long and has a chopper, whisk and plastic beaker.
What’s the difference: There’s just one speed -- fast.
What we thought: This is the buzz saw of immersion blenders. It grinds through everything, but there is no finessing, and it’s noisy. It’s lighter and less well built than the other wands we tested, and it took longer to blend. The splash factor is greater because of the motor speed and blade guard design. Attachments are easy to attach and operate.
How much: $30 at Bed Bath & Beyond
*
Expendable
The white Cuisinart SmartStick (CSB-55N) has a four-speed motor and three attachments.
What’s the difference: The extendable wand.
What we thought: It’s the slowest, least efficient of the blenders: Getting a smooth puree took about twice as long as with the other three models. Oddly, the chopping/grinding attachment works better than the blending wand, but the plastic whipping attachment is difficult to attach. Ergonomically speaking, it stinks; it’s awkward and heavy.
How much: $60 at Sur La Table