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2002 Volpe Pasini Sauvignon Zuc di Volpe

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Chablis is wonderful, but Sauvignon Blanc is a brilliant match with oysters too. And this one from the historic Volpe Pasini estate in Friuli in northeast Italy can easily hold its own against top examples from the Loire Valley. The estate’s Sauvignon cuttings came from the Loire, in fact. The color of straw, Zuc di Volpe Sauvignon has the crisp acidity and beguiling mineral quality that’s so delicious with oysters. But don’t stop there: Drink it as an aperitif, with a great goat cheese, or with any chilled shellfish. Dungeness crab would be terrific, or steamed mussels too. This is one of the best Italian Sauvignons I’ve ever tasted.

--S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Friuli

Price: About $24

Style: Crisp and minerally

Food it goes with: Oysters and chilled shellfish

Where you find it: Green Jug, Woodland Hills (818) 887-9463; Joan’s on Third Marketplace, Los Angeles (323) 655-2285; Len’s Wine Bar, Laguna Beach (949) 376-2215; Wine Exchange, Orange (714) 974-1454, (800) 76WINEX.

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