2007 Domaine des Escaravailles Cotes du Rhone 'Les Sablieres'

Domaine des Escaravailles is known for its fine Rasteau. But Gilles Ferran, grandson of founder Jean-Louis Ferran, also makes a terrific Côtes du Rhône called "Les Sablières," which is mostly Grenache blended with 20% Syrah and 10% Carignan.

Dark ruby with glints of violet, the 2007 is pure fruit, tasting of raspberries and earth. It's delightful drinking, not too complex, with the weight of a Beaujolais. A wine to break out for any occasion, great with a burger, a hearty soup, something braised or grilled, a platter of roasted root vegetables. In warm weather, serve it ever so slightly chilled.

-- S. Irene Virbila Region: Southern Rhone, France

Price: About $12.

Style: Rich and full-bodied.

What it goes with: Burgers, soups, grilled meats, roasted vegetables.

Where to find it: Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024, www.silverlake; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454,; the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731,; Wine Steals in Cardiff-by-the-Sea (760) 230-2657,