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Bad Shocks Can Cause Hard Steering

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Times Staff Writer

Question: I have a 1977 Ford Granada that has an erratic steering problem. At times, it’s difficult to keep in the lane, but most of the time it’s bearable although sloppy. You have to be constantly steering, as if the car were always in a strong crosswind. I’ve had the steering and tires checked. Any suggestions?--A.A.L. Answer: If you’re sure that the front tires are properly inflated to the same pressure, the problem could be a bad shock absorber at one of the front wheels. When one of the shocks is worn out, that side of the car will bounce more with each bump, pulling and pushing the vehicle to one side or the other as you drive. You may find that the problem is worse on slightly bumpy roads than on a smooth, flat surface.

A shock absorber is basically two chambers connected by a small opening, with enough hydraulic fluid to fill one of the chambers. When you hit a bump, a piston forces the fluid from one chamber to the other. As the car rebounds, the fluid is forced back to the first chamber. The resistance of the hydraulic pumping action “absorbs” the shock, preventing the car from bouncing up and down, as it would if the coil or leaf springs were not dampened by the shock absorber.

You can spot a bad shock by looking for signs of leaking fluid around the top and bottom of the unit, although they can wear out without leaking. To test a shock, stand at the corner of the car and press down hard on the fender. The car should rebound to its normal position without bouncing. If it continues to move up and down for a moment, then the shock is bad.

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You should always replace shocks in pairs, either both front or both rear, at the same time. It’s a good idea to replace all four at once because they will all tend to wear out at about the same time.

Q: I can’t seem to find a gasoline that will prevent my engine from pinging. Is there a commercial octane booster I could buy to pour into the gas tank that won’t harm my engine? --E.A. A: There are a number of additives on the market that the manufacturers say will prevent engine knock or pinging. While these chemicals may not necessarily increase the octane of your fuel, they can help the fuel burn more evenly in the combustion chamber, preventing the damage that excessive pinging can cause.

However, you would have to add a can of the chemical to every tank of gasoline you put in your car, and it could become both expensive and a nuisance.

The most economical and effective octane booster is lead, but it is highly poisonous and is not commercially available. It also can’t be used in most cars built after 1975 because the vehicles are equipped with catalytic converters to control emissions. Unleaded gasolines use manganese as an anti-knock compound, but it too is not something you can buy in an auto-parts store.

Most of the so-called octane boosters that you do see contain some sort of alcohol. Adding alcohol to gasoline can cause trouble. It can cause moisture to condense in the fuel system and cause the engine to run poorly. Some types of alcohol mixtures can also damage rubber and plastic parts in the carburetor.

The best remedy for pinging is an engine tuneup. If that doesn’t solve it, buy a higher-octane fuel. Some service stations have unleaded gasolines as high as 93 octane, which should be high enough to prevent pinging in a properly tuned auto. It’s a little more expensive than unleaded regular gasoline, but probably no more expensive than it would be to add a can of octane booster to each tank of fuel.

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