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Waxing Profound About Polishes for a Car

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Times Staff Writer

Question: I have been using paste wax on my Plymouth ever since I bought it, and the car still looks like new. But it takes a lot of work to keep this up. Liquid silicone wax takes only 10% of the time to do the whole car. Is silicone wax as effective as paste wax?--R.A.

Answer: Silicone wax can be an effective and long-lasting protection for some cars, but eventually it will require just as much effort to use as a paste wax.

Selection of a wax for your car is probably the single most confusing decision you’ll have to make regarding car care.

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Manufacturers make a dizzying array of waxes, and differentiating between them can be next to impossible for the average consumer. Almost every wax manufacturer makes two or three different products without explaining the fundamental difference between them.

The starting point for caring for your car finish is to realize that putting some kind of wax on your paint is almost always better than nothing at all. So, if an easy-application wax is the only product you will actually use at home, don’t persuade yourself to buy a difficult-to-use product at the store.

Protection and Shine

The objective is to first remove accumulated dirt, atmospheric pollution and oxidized paint and then apply a protective coating to the paint that will preserve it and enhance its shine.

The first car wax was introduced in 1911 and consisted almost entirely of carnauba wax, even today one of the hardest waxes known. But carnauba yellows with age and requires enormous physical effort.

By the 1950s, the first paste waxes with silicone appeared on the market. Today’s softer waxes are generally better for modern cars because the acrylic paints used on new cars is softer than the old lacquer paints.

Almost all of today’s paste waxes contain a cleaner, a natural wax such as carnauba and silicone compounds. The new spray silicones are almost pure synthetic silicone wax.

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The problem in using these spray finishes repeatedly is that you are doing little to clean the surface of your car. That may be acceptable when a car is new, but after some period of time, it is necessary to crank up your arm and start rubbing the grime and dead paint off your car.

You may use a separate cleaner or polish and then follow it up with the silicone treatment, but that process may end up in more labor and time than a one-step treatment. Prices can vary from a few dollars to more than $10.

The difference among the products is usually the amount of complex silicones and complex amino compounds the manufacturer has added. So-called poly applications usually contain the most complex and costly amino compounds. Simoniz, for example, claims that its poly wax is as durable as the poly coating that dealers apply.

The biggest problem with such treatments is that they continue protecting the car for longer than they shine. You can be certain your paint is being protected as long as water beads on the paint. Poly applications can last up to six months.

Some car owners are willing to invest the time for more frequent waxing that will maintain a good shine. In this case, they will opt for a less-expensive, easier-to-use wax. These paste waxes generally contain more cleaners than poly-type waxes and require less rubbing.

“It gets to be confusing because there are a lot of gimmicks in this business,” an executive of one major wax company says.

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“But it comes down to paying for what you get.”

Ralph Vartabedian cannot answer mail personally but will respond in this column to automotive questions of general interest. Do not telephone. Write to Your Wheels, You section, The Times, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles 90053.

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