Gear Leakage May Cause Slow Starting
Question: I have a 1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Salon with 86,500 miles on it. In cooler weather when I start the car and put it in gear, it takes 10 to 15 seconds for the car to move. I have gotten three different opinions on it, including one that I should do nothing and one that I need a new transmission. Can you help?--A.S.
Answer: Your problem is caused by internal seals in your transmission that are leaking fluid. The automatic transmission system operates under high pressure, and leakage causes internal pressures to drop, resulting in slipping and slow running.
Ignoring the problem is not wise because you will either cause greater damage or you may end up stranded far from home. But there are a few things to check before you buy a transmission.
First, check your transmission oil level, and examine the color of the fluid. It should be a clear, bright red. If it is burnt, dark red and smells charred, you have a problem that needs attention.
Second, before you rebuild your transmission, you should have the transmission oil changed and the screen cleaned. You may simply have a problem with a plugged screen that is inhibiting oil flow.
And finally, if you require a transmission job, be sure you have the work done by a qualified garage that will provide a fully “remanufactured” transmission, not a “rebuilt” transmission. In a remanufactured transmission, all moving parts are replaced, and the end product should be as good as new. Some transmission shops will install used parts and call their transmissions rebuilt.
Q: I recently dinged the front fender of my 1983 Mazda while backing out of a parking space. The dent is about the size of a pancake and about an inch deep. A body garage estimated the damage at $350. I’m still in a state of shock. I’d like to attempt to repair the dent myself, but have never done any body work. Could you give me some tips?--C.N.
A: You can do minor sheet-metal repair in your backyard, but you should be prepared to accept less than a professional quality job. Just how much less will depend on your skills. Sheet-metal repair is an art that also requires proper equipment and materials. Even the most handy backyard mechanic is not likely to have everything it takes for a passable job. The biggest problem will be matching the color of your car, which has undoubtedly faded since the car was painted at the factory.
The first step is to sand the damaged area down to the bare metal. A power-disk sander will help. Fill in the dent with body filler, using a plastic scraper to even the material to the fender’s contour. After it hardens, sand it down to the fender’s contour, and feather the edges (sand the edges so that they taper very gradually to the bare metal). You will need to apply more coats until the repair duplicates the shape of the fender, because the paint will show every imperfection.
Tape off the area, leaving a perimeter of several inches around the bare spot. Now apply at least two coats of primer and hand sand very lightly with wet and dry sandpaper No. 600 grit after each coat. Again, feather the edge of primer down to your existing paint.
You are ready to put on the color coat. Auto-supply stores carry paints that are matched to your original color. Apply at least two thin coats, sanding with the same grit wet and dry sandpaper after each coat. You should be left with a dull finish, which you will bring to a gloss with polishing compound, sold at any auto-parts store.
The color will certainly not match your car’s color. After six months, however, it may fade enough to match somewhat better.
