Do’s and Don’ts for Hiding Figure Faults
Question: I have small shoulders and a thick midriff. I know, of course, that shoulder pads help to correct the first problem, but what dress styles are best for me? If I find a dress that fits in the shoulders it’s always too tight at the midsection. Or should I skip dresses entirely and stick to blouses and skirts?--D.H.
Answer: Many women share your figure problem, especially older women whose weight shifts downwards with the years. Here are the don’ts: Don’t buy dresses or jackets with set-in sleeves. They draw attention to your worst feature, and they make proper fit difficult because the jacket and dress must flare out from the armhole in order to skim your midsection.
And don’t try to disguise your small shoulders by buying clothes with big collars. The top of your body is too narrow for this oversize proportion.
Do look for raglan or drop sleeves. And do select no-waistline dresses, such as chemises and smocks.
The Geoffrey Beene design illustrated here is ideal for your figure as the sleeves are raglan and the dress has no waistline. Beene adds to the shoulder-widening illusion by quilting the sleeves and front yoke.
If you sew, you can make this dress by using Vogue Pattern 1579, and you can enhance your shoulders even more by making the quilted yoke and sleeves in a color that is lighter than the body of the dress. (Anything light looks bigger than anything dark.)
If you select wool jersey, for example, which is one of Beene’s favorite fabrics, you can make the yoke and sleeves in shocking pink and the dress in black. Or you can pair beige with brown, fuchsia with purple, lilac with navy. You do not have to limit your wardrobe to blouses and skirts.
Q: My frustration knows no bounds. In answer to a question about the dress equivalent to the success suit, you recommended Vogue Pattern 1342. I have haunted every fabric shop within miles to no avail. That pattern no longer exists.--B.B.L.
A: You’re right. It has been discontinued. There is hope, however, as Vogue keeps discontinued patterns for a year. The company charges 50 cents for postage and handling, plus the price of the pattern. If you don’t know the original price, simply write to the company stating the pattern number and size. If they have it in stock, they will send it with a bill. Write to the Consumer Services Department at Vogue/Butterick, 161 6th Ave., New York, N.Y. 10013. If it’s not in stock, try Very Easy Vogue 9368. It’s similar to 1342.
Q: Please help me locate a source for the incredible extra-fine wool underwear from Switzerland.--L.S.
A: You’re probably referring to Hanro of Switzerland, a company that specializes in underwear made of cotton, silk, wool and blends of wool and silk. Hanro’s wool-and-silk vests ($34.50), short-sleeve tops ($40), long-sleeve tops ($41.50), long pants ($38) and snuggies ($24) are available in the current catalogue published by Garnet Hill, Franconia, N.Y. 03580.
In addition to the Swiss underwear, Garnet Hill offers lacy wool underwear from England in vests ($8.90), short-sleeve tops ($13.50), long-sleeve tops ($14.90) and trousers ($16.75), plus wool slips by Lisanza of Italy at $30.50. The slips have built-up shoulders, a V-neck accented with lace and a ribbed midriff for trim fit.
