GUNG HAY FAT CHOY!

Chinese people around the world will exchange the popular greeting, Gung hay fat choy! (Wishing you happiness and prosperity!), when the year 4685 arrives next Thursday. For thousands of years, the Chinese have marked the beginning of their new year on the second new moon after winter solstice, sometime between Jan. 21 and Feb. 19. This has always been a special holiday, celebrated with festivities that last anywhere from a week to a full month (although 10 days to two weeks is more common today).

According to the Chinese zodiac, which runs in a 12-year cycle, this is the year of the hare. Legend has it that an ancient emperor invited all the animals to a feast, but only 12 appeared. He established a year to honor each one--the rat, ox, tiger, hare, dragon, serpent, horse, ram, monkey, rooster, dog and boar. The Chinese believe that people born under each of these signs have certain traits typical of the animal.

Public celebrations at the new year include parades with dragons and fireworks. Here in Chinatown, the Golden Dragon Parade will be held Feb. 14 at 4 p.m. Lion and dragon dancers will cavort up Broadway, along with floats, marching bands, drill teams and movie and television stars.

Another important part of the holiday activities are the private family celebrations, where traditions passed down for centuries are observed. Here in Los Angeles, the Lau family, as well as many others, still carries on these customs.

Marcela Lau has fond memories of the new year celebrations she experienced as a child growing up in China. Even today, when she reminisces about the elaborate preparations and holiday activities, it brings excitement to her voice and a broad smile.

Lau was born in the Philippines, but when she was still very young, her Chinese parents sent her to boarding school in their native country. She was permitted to leave the school at new year holidays, and she spent this time at the home of her aunt and uncle.

Preparation for this important occasion actually began two months earlier, when fabric was chosen to be made into new clothing. Often the material was bright red, and the finished dress had a lot of trimming, a stark contrast from the plain, dark-colored uniforms worn at boarding school, Lau remembers.

Dressing in new clothing was just one of the many traditions observed. Because this was considered a time of new beginnings, it was also customary to pay off all debts and clean the house thoroughly before the festivities could begin with a multicourse feast on new year’s eve.

A week or more preparation was required for the special foods served at this dinner and on the actual holiday, when no cooking was permitted.

“The Chinese are very superstitious,” Lau says. Many of the dishes served at the new year feast have names that sound like other Chinese words associated with prosperity, good health and luck.

For example, since the Chinese word for lettuce also sounds like “wealth is born,” it is traditional to serve lettuce leaves. Clams, which indicate a receptivity to good fortune, are another typical addition to the feast. A whole steamed fish is included because the word for fish sounds like “surplus,” and the Chinese want any leftover wealth to flow into the new year. Dessert often includes tangerines because the Chinese word sounds like “good luck.”

Unbroken Circle

On new year’s eve, the family gathered to enjoy the meal at a large round table, symbolizing the unbroken circle of togetherness. To protect them from the cold weather, Lau remembers a heater was placed beneath the table. On new year’s day, the custom was to visit relatives--going from house to house and enjoying snacks such as candy or tangerines. Here the children received red envelopes, called lei-see, containing money and symbolizing good luck.

Today, Lau, her husband, Johann, and children Johann Jr., Emil and Kay, still welcome the new year with a traditional feast of seven or eight dishes. Often, friends are invited to join the festivities.

Lau, who teaches Chinese cooking in her home, has adapted many of the traditional recipes to today’s trends toward less salt and lighter foods. She also incorporates the use of modern equipment, like the food processor, where applicable.

The Lau feast begins with Chicken-Corn-Tomato Soup, accented by colorful green peas. In another dish, lettuce leaves are spread with Hoisin-Sesame Sauce, then filled with a mixture of minced chicken and rice noodles. These are rolled up and eaten by hand.

Frank Sinclair’s Duck may be an unlikely name for a Chinese recipe, but it was developed by Lau for an old family friend. Knowing that Sinclair enjoyed duck but always found it too greasy, Lau experimented with recipes until Sinclair finally gave his stamp of approval.

Black Beans Key to Sauce

Fermented black beans are key to the sauce for Lau’s clam recipe. These must be steamed before being mashed and incorporated into the sauce. Lau’s fast and easy recipe for Steamed Fish is traditionally positioned on the table with the head pointing toward the most honored guest.

Rounding out the meal are Deep-Fried Eggs in Bird’s Nests, spicy Sichuan Shrimp, steamed Chinese broccoli and rice. For dessert, there’s a coconut-flavored tapioca pudding garnished with symbolic mandarin oranges.

Sherry-Ginger is key to many of Lau’s recipes. This is not a purchased item, but needs to be prepared from the recipe she shares in today’s section. The mixture stores in the refrigerator up to six months. Also important to the flavor of some recipes are the methods Lau shares for removing canned aroma or flavor from bamboo shoots and cleaning shrimp.

Because the feast includes so many dishes, serving sizes are relatively small. These may need to be altered should the recipes be served solo.

CHICKEN-CORN- TOMATO SOUP

(Chi, Su-Mi, Fan Chieh Tang)

2 chicken breasts

1 teaspoon Sherry-Ginger

1/4 teaspoon salt

Dash black pepper

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons water

2 (13 3/4- to 14 1/2-ounce) cans chicken broth

1 (17-ounce) can creamed corn

1 cup diced tomatoes

1 (2- to 4-ounce) can sliced mushrooms

1/2 cup peas

2 egg whites

2 tablespoons milk

Remove skin and bones from chicken breasts. Freeze slightly, slice into strips, then chop.

Combine Sherry-Ginger, salt, pepper, cornstarch and 2 tablespoons water in bowl. Add chicken, mixing well. Let stand at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.

Place chicken broth in large saucepan or Dutch oven. Add remaining 1/4 cup water and creamed corn, bring to boil, then stir in tomatoes and mushrooms.

When mixture returns to boil, add chicken, stirring with chopsticks. Bring to boil, then stir in peas. Combine egg whites and milk. When soup returns to boil, add egg white mixture, stirring slightly with chopsticks. Remove from heat. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Sherry-Ginger

2 (3-inch) pieces ginger root

2 cups dry Sherry

Peel ginger. Slice, then puree in food processor. Place in jar and pour Sherry over it. Refrigerate up to 6 months. Stir before using. Makes about 2 cups.

MINCED CHICKEN IN LETTUCE LEAVES

(Sheng Chai Chi Sung)

Canned Bamboo Shoots

Jicama or water chestnuts

2 to 3 carrots

3 chicken breasts

1/2 pound lean ground pork

1 tablespoon Sherry-Ginger

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

Dash black pepper

Dash garlic powder

1 egg

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

2 ounces rice noodles

4 green onions, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

3 to 5 dried black mushrooms, soaked

1/2 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

8 to 10 iceberg lettuce leaves

Hoisin-Sesame Sauce

Cut piece of bamboo shoot to fit food processor feed tube. Process using shredding blade. Finely chop shredded bamboo shoot to measure 2/3 cup. Remove liquid by placing small amount at time in fine sieve and pressing.

Peel jicama. Shred and chop as directed for bamboo shoot, then measure 2/3 cup and remove liquid by squeezing through clean tea towel. Peel, shred and chop carrots to measure 1/2 cup.

Remove skin and bones from chicken breasts. Freeze slightly, slice into strips, then chop. Combine chicken with pork, Sherry-Ginger, light and dark soy sauces, pepper, garlic powder and egg. Mix well and let stand at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.

Heat about 2 inches vegetable oil in wok. Deep-fry rice noodles. Remove and drain on paper towels.

Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon oil. Reheat, then add half of green onions and garlic and stir-fry 2 to 3 seconds. Add chicken-pork mixture and brown, crumbling into small pieces. Remove with slotted spoon.

Drain and chop mushrooms. Stir-fry mushrooms, bamboo shoot, jicama and carrot in wok with small amount oil. Add sugar, oyster sauce and chicken-pork mixture. Mix thoroughly. Stir in sesame oil.

Place meat mixture on serving platter. Surround with rice noodles. Serve with lettuce leaves and Hoisin-Sesame Sauce. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

Canned Bamboo Shoots

1 (15-ounce) can whole bamboo shoots

Drain bamboo shoots and place in saucepan. Add cold water to cover, cover pan and bring to boil. Drain. Again add cold water, cover and bring to boil. Drain.

Rinse bamboo shoots in cold water. Place in storage container, cover with cold water and refrigerate. If water is changed weekly, bamboo shoots may be refrigerated several weeks.

Hoisin-Sesame Sauce

1/4 cup hoisin sauce

2 tablespoons water

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

Place hoisin sauce, water and sugar in small saucepan. Bring to boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat, add sesame oil and cool. Makes about 1/3 cup.

DEEP-FRIED EGGS IN BIRD’S NESTS

(Chai Chuch Chao Tan)

1/2 pound shrimp

1/2 teaspoon vinegar

1 pound lean ground pork

1 tablespoon Sherry-Ginger

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

Dash black pepper

Dash garlic powder

1 tablespoon cornstarch

Jicama

Canned Bamboo Shoots

2 green onions, finely chopped

1 egg white

1 (10-ounce) can quail eggs

Fine egg noodles, uncooked

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

Shredded lettuce

Shredded carrots

Shell and devein shrimp. Place in pie plate, sprinkle with vinegar and toss lightly 2 to 3 minutes. Rinse and drain with cold water several times. Pat dry with paper towels.

Chop shrimp. Combine with pork, Sherry-Ginger, salt, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, pepper, garlic powder and cornstarch. Stir until mixture is of sticky consistency.

Cut piece of bamboo shoot to fit food processor feed tube. Process using shredding blade. Finely chop shredded bamboo shoot to measure 1/4 cup. Remove liquid by placing small amount at time in fine sieve and pressing.

Peel jicama. Shred and chop as directed for bamboo shoot, then measure 1/4 cup and remove liquid by squeezing through clean tea towel. Add bamboo shoot, jicama, green onions and egg white to shrimp mixture.

Divide and shape mixture into 15 to 16 balls. Insert 1 quail egg into each ball and shape meat around egg to resemble nest.

Cut noodles in 5- to 6-inch lengths. Place meatball on top of small amount of noodles and wrap ends around meat to resemble bird’s nest.

Deep-fry nests in 350-degree vegetable oil until noodles are golden brown and meat is cooked through. Arrange on bed of shredded lettuce and carrots. Makes 15 to 16 nests.

FRANK SINCLAIR’S DUCK

1 (5- to 6-pound) duck

2 to 3 tablespoons Sherry-Ginger

4 green onions

1 cup beer

1/4 cup soy sauce

3/4 cup Chinese sweet black vinegar

Remove neck and giblets from duck. Rinse and set aside. Rinse duck, drain and pat dry with paper towels. Rub duck inside and out with Sherry-Ginger.

Place, breast side down, in roasting pan and broil about 6 inches from heat until well browned. Cut green onions in halves and use 1/2 to cover areas of duck that brown too quickly.

Turn duck breast side up and continue broiling until well browned, covering areas that brown more quickly with remaining cut green onions. Remove duck from pan and drain off all fat.

Replace duck, breast side up, in roaster. Tuck green onions used during browning that are not overcharred into body cavity. Distribute neck and giblets around sides of duck in roasting pan. Pour beer over duck. Combine soy sauce and black vinegar and pour into body cavity and over top of duck.

Cover and roast at 325 degrees 1 hour. Turn duck breast side down and continue roasting 45 minutes or until duck is tender. Transfer duck to serving platter. Remove fat from pan drippings and pour remaining sauce over duck. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

Note: Duck may be roasted 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Remove solidified fat from pan, then reheat duck at 300 degrees 15 minutes.

SICHUAN SHRIMP

1 pound medium shrimp

Vinegar

1 tablespoon Sherry-Ginger

1/2 teaspoon salt

Dash black pepper

Dash garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/2 egg white

Vegetable oil

1 slice ginger root, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

2 green onions, finely chopped

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 green pepper, finely chopped

1/4 cup catsup

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon hot chile sauce

Shell and devein shrimp. Place in pie plate, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon vinegar and toss lightly 2 to 3 minutes. Rinse and drain with cold water several times. Pat dry with paper towels.

Sprinkle Sherry-Ginger over shrimp and toss lightly. Pat dry with paper towels. Combine shrimp, salt, pepper, garlic powder, sesame oil, cornstarch and egg white. Mix well and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.

Heat wok. Add small amount vegetable oil and brown ginger, garlic and green onions. Add refrigerated shrimp mixture and stir-fry until pink. Remove shrimp, add more vegetable oil and stir-fry onion and green pepper.

Combine catsup, sugar, soy sauce, 1 tablespoon vinegar and chile sauce. Add to wok and bring mixture to boil. Add shrimp, mixing thoroughly. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

STIR-FRIED CLAMS WITH FERMENTED BLACK BEANS

(See Chiao Chao Hsien)

2 tablespoons fermented black beans

Vegetable oil

1 teaspoon sugar

2 pounds clams, cleaned

4 slices ginger root

1 small onion, cut into chunks

2 green onions, cut into pieces

1 green pepper, cut into chunks

1 sweet red pepper, cut into chunks

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1/2 cup chicken broth

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

Combine black beans, 1 teaspoon vegetable oil and 1/2 teaspoon sugar. Steam over boiling water 3 to 5 minutes. Mash mixture and set aside. Steam clams over rapidly boiling water until open, about 3 minutes.

Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in wok. Stir-fry ginger, onion, green onions and mashed black beans about 1 minute. Add green and red peppers and continue stir-frying 1 minute.

Combine soy sauce, remaining 1/2 teaspoon sugar, chicken broth, cornstarch and sesame oil. Add to vegetables and bring to boil, stirring until thickened. Add clams, mixing well. Makes about 6 servings.

Note: 1 tablespoon chili paste may be added to sauce, if desired.

STEAMED FISH

1 (1 1/2-pound) flounder or catfish

Sherry-Ginger

Dash black pepper

Dash sesame oil

Vegetable oil

8 green onions

8 slices ginger root, shredded

3/4 cup chicken broth

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Wash fish and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with Sherry-Ginger, pepper and sesame oil, rubbing into surface.

Brush sheet of foil long enough to wrap fish with vegetable oil. Cut 4 green onions into halves. Place 2 green onions and some of shredded ginger on foil, then place fish over top.

Place other 2 halved green onions and more shredded ginger on top of fish. Bring foil up around fish and pour 1/4 cup chicken broth over top before folding foil and sealing tightly. Place wrapped fish on baking sheet and bake at 400 degrees 20 minutes.

Combine remaining 1/2 cup chicken broth, soy sauce, salt and sugar in saucepan and heat until very hot. Heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil in another saucepan until very hot.

Cut remaining 4 green onions into fine julienne strips. Remove fish from oven and unwrap. Discard cooked onion and place fish on serving plate. Sprinkle with julienned green onion and remaining shredded ginger. Pot hot oil, then hot sauce over fish. Makes about 4 servings.

TAPIOCA-COCONUT PUDDING

1 cup very small pearl tapioca

1 tablespoon gelatin

1/2 cup sugar

1 (32-ounce) bottle coconut juice

1 (11-ounce) can mandarin oranges

Fresh or canned cherries

Wash tapioca, then soak in cold water 30 minutes. Place 2 cups water in saucepan and bring to boil. Drain tapioca and add slowly to boiling water, stirring constantly. Cook over medium heat about 5 minutes.

Soften gelatin in 1/2 cup cold water. Add gelatin and sugar to tapioca and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat, then stir in coconut juice.

Drain mandarin oranges. Reserve some for garnish. Fold remaining oranges into pudding. Spoon pudding into 2-quart bowl or individual dessert dishes and chill until firm. Garnish with reserved mandarin oranges and cherries. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Food styling by DONNA DEANE