The Sweet Art of Passover Baking : Delicacies That Make a Welcome Addition to the Seder

Passover baking is a challenge to the cook because so many foods are forbidden. No leavened foods may be used--nor any leavening ingredients, such as flour, grains, cornstarch, baking powder and baking soda. So we must substitute matzo meal, potato starch and egg whites to obtain the high-rising baked goods we admire. The good news is that it’s not difficult. These recipes will add a culinary sparkle to the eight days of Passover, beginning this year on Monday evening.

All of these delicacies are fairly simple and will be a welcome addition to the seder, as well as family meals and “brown bag” lunches that many 9-to-5ers will carry to avoid eating forbidden food.

I predict that when you sample the chocolate Truffle Cupcakes and other Passover specialties, you’ll never miss your usual favorites. And how about a Passover version of mandelbrot ?

Many Jewish households do not use matzo meal or cake meal, so I have developed a Spicy Almond Spongecake that rises to great heights with the help of egg whites and potato starch. Almonds, a lot of spices and a glossy Chocolate Glaze make it extra good. The Danish Apple Cake also uses no matzo--and no potato products.

Another interesting cake made with potato starch is Prune-Pecan Spongecake. The prune puree adds texture and flavor, as do the chewy pecans. It’s nice for guests who drop in during the holiday, served with a glass of kosher wine or a cup of tea. And pass a plate of Rocky Road Bonbons for another sweet treat. They’re made with Passover chocolate and marshmallows that are now available.

Hazelnut Meringues are thin, crisp--and habit-forming, so make a lot. They’re nothing like the usual Passover fare. One of my family’s favorites is Lemon Meringue Pie. Nobody thinks of making Passover pies, and this simple one is a winner. It has a nutty crust filled with a tangy lemon custard and topped with meringue.

PASSOVER DESSERT MENU

Truffle Cupcakes

Prune-Pecan Spongecake

Hazelnut Meringues

Almond Macaroons

Passover Mandelbrot

Spicy Almond Spongecake

Passover Danish Apple Cake

Lemon Meringue Pie

Rocky Road Bonbons

TRUFFLE CUPCAKES

4 ounces semisweet chocolate

1/2 cup butter or margarine

3 eggs, separated

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup ground almonds or pistachios

2 tablespoons sweet Passover wine

2/3 cup potato starch

Apricot Glaze

Melt chocolate and butter in small saucepan. In large mixing bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar until light and fluffy. Slowly beat in chocolate mixture in thin stream. Add ground almonds and wine, blending thoroughly.

Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry and spoon over chocolate mixture. Sift potato starch on top of batter and beaten egg whites. Using rubber spatula, gently fold egg whites and potato starch into batter.

Place ruffled paper cupcake cups in muffin pans or on baking sheets. Spoon batter in cups, filling half-full. Bake at 350 degrees 10 to 12 minutes or until wood pick inserted in center comes out dry. Spoon Apricot Glaze over hot cupcakes. Serve hot or cold. Makes 24 cupcakes.

Apricot Glaze

1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons water

3 tablespoons sweet Passover wine

1/2 cup apricot preserves

Combine sugar, water, wine and preserves in saucepan. Bring to boil and simmer 2 minutes.

PRUNE-PECAN SPONGECAKE

9 eggs, separated

1 2/3 cups sugar

1/4 cup orange juice

1 tablespoon orange peel

1/2 cup finely chopped toasted pecans

1 cup potato starch

1/4 teaspoon salt

Prune Filling

1 cup pulverized sugar

Toasted pecan halves

Beat egg yolks and 1 1/3 cups sugar until light color and fluffy. Blend in orange juice and peel. Mix in chopped pecans. Add potato starch and salt to egg yolk mixture and blend thoroughly.

In large mixing bowl, beat egg whites until foamy. Add remaining 1/3 cup sugar and beat until stiff but not dry. Fold 1/4 of beaten egg whites into batter. Add remaining whites and fold in gently until blended.

Pour batter into ungreased 10-inch tube pan. Bake at 350 degrees 45 to 55 minutes or until wood pick inserted in center comes out dry. Invert pan immediately and cool thoroughly. Loosen cake from sides of pan and from center of tube with sharp knife. Unmold cake and place on serving plate. Slice crosswise into 3 layers. Spread Prune Filling over both sides of center layer. Sprinkled with pulverized sugar and garnish with pecan halves.

Note: To pulverize sugar, place 1 cup sugar in food processor and blend.

Prune Filling

2 cups stewed prunes, seeded and tightly packed

1 cup cooking liquid from prunes

Place prunes in food processor and puree. Gradually add cooking liquid and blend well. Cover and chill.

HAZELNUT MERINGUES

1/3 cup matzo cake meal

2/3 cup sugar

4 egg whites

1/8 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup finely ground hazelnuts

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

3 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

Sift matzo cake meal with 1/3 cup sugar. Beat egg whites with salt until frothy. Gradually add remaining 1/3 cup sugar, beating until stiff but not dry. Fold in cake meal mixture, then hazelnuts, vanilla and butter. Drop by teaspoons onto foil-lined baking sheets. Spread flat with metal spatula or knife.

Bake at 325 degrees 10 to 15 minutes or until edges are light brown and centers golden. Cool, then peel off foil and cool on racks. Makes about 4 dozen cookies.

ALMOND MACAROONS

3 egg whites

2/3 cup sugar

5 tablespoons matzo cake meal

1 1/4 cups ground almonds

Dash salt

Grated peel of 1 lemon

Oil

Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry. In large mixing bowl, combine sugar, matzo cake meal, almonds, salt and lemon peel and fold into beaten egg whites.

Line baking sheet with foil and brush with oil. Drop batter by teaspoons or pipe from pastry bag 2 inches apart onto prepared baking sheet. Bake at 325 degrees 15 minutes or until golden brown. Makes about 28 cookies.

PASSOVER MANDELBROT

3/4 cup oil

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

3 eggs

3/4 cup matzo cake meal

1/4 cup matzo meal

2 tablespoons potato starch

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Grated peel of 1 lemon

1 cup sliced almonds

Blend oil and 3/4 cup sugar in large mixing bowl until light. Add eggs and blend thoroughly. In large bowl, combine matzo cake meal, matzo meal, potato starch, salt and 1 teaspoon cinnamon and blend into oil mixture alternately with lemon juice and peel. Fold in almonds. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour. Dough will set when cold.

Divide dough into 3 or 4 parts. With lightly oiled hands, shape each part into oval loaf, 2 inches wide and 1 inch high. Place loaves 2 inches apart on greased baking sheets. Bake at 350 degrees 30 minutes or until golden brown.

In small bowl, combine remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon.

Remove loaves from oven and use spatula to transfer to cutting board. Cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Place cut-side up on same baking sheets and sprinkle with sugar-cinnamon mixture. Turn off heat and return loaves to oven. Leave mandelbrot in oven 10 minutes per side or until lightly brown and crisp. Transfer to racks and cool. Makes about 4 dozen.

SPICY ALMOND SPONGECAKE

7 eggs, separated

1 egg

1 1/2 cups sugar

3 tablespoons orange juice

Peel of 1 orange

3/4 cup potato starch

1/4 cup ground almonds

Dash salt

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Chocolate Glaze

Sliced almonds

Beat egg yolks and whole egg in large mixing bowl until light. Gradually add sugar and continue beating until well blended and light in color. Blend in orange juice and peel.

Combine potato starch, ground almonds, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon and cloves. Blend potato starch mixture into egg yolk mixture.

In large bowl, beat egg whites until stiff. Fold 1/4 of egg whites into egg yolk mixture. Fold remaining egg whites into egg yolk mixture. Pour into 10-inch tube pan and bake at 350 degrees 50 minutes or until cake springs back to touch and wood pick inserted into center of cake comes out clean. Invert pan until cool. With sharp knife, loosen cake from sides and center of tube pan. Transfer to serving platter. Drizzle Chocolate Glaze on top and down sides of cake. Garnish with sliced almonds. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Chocolate Glaze

1/4 cup butter or margarine

6 tablespoons honey

1/3 cup water or coffee

12 ounces semisweet chocolate

Combine butter, honey and water in saucepan. Bring to boil, then reduce heat to simmer. Add chocolate and beat until stiff enough to spread or drizzle over cake.

PASSOVER DANISH APPLE CAKE

1 (1-pound) can or homemade Passover macaroons

1 cup toasted ground almonds

8 tart apples

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 cup raisins, plumped in sweet wine or apple juice

1/2 cup butter or margarine, melted

2 (12-ounce) jars Passover preserves (cherry, raspberry or strawberry)

Toasted sliced almonds

Break up macaroons into small pieces. Place on baking sheet and bake at 375 degrees 15 to 20 minutes until light brown. Cool and combine with ground almonds.

Peel, core and slice apples and place in saucepan with sugar and lemon juice. Mix well. Cook over low heat until juices appear and apples soften, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain thoroughly. In food processor, chop apples fine, but do not puree. Add raisins and toss. Set aside.

Generously butter 8-inch springform pan. In large bowl, combine macaroon mixture and butter and mix well. Remove 2 cups macaroon mixture and press into bottom of springform pan.

Place half of apple mixture on top of crumb mixture. Spoon preserves into bowl and mix well. Spread 6 to 8 ounces preserves over apple mixture. Add remaining apples and 6 to 8 ounces preserves. Sprinkle with macaroon mixture.

Bake at 350 degrees 45 to 55 minutes. Cool on rack, then cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours or overnight. Just before serving, remove from pan, place on platter and garnish with toasted almonds and dollops of preserves.

LEMON MERINGUE PIE

3 eggs, separated

1 cup plus 6 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup potato starch

1/4 teaspoon salt

Grated peel of 1 lemon

1/2 cup lemon juice

1 1/2 cups warm water

1 baked (10- or 11-inch) Passover Pie Crust

Place egg yolks, 1 cup sugar, potato starch, salt, lemon peel and lemon juice in large saucepan over medium heat. Beat well and cook over medium heat until thickens. Add water, blending thoroughly, and continue cooking until clear and thick, 5 to 10 minutes. Cool.

In large mixing bowl, beat egg whites until foamy. Add remaining 6 tablespoons sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Spoon into pastry bag.

Spoon lemon filling into cooled pie crust. Pipe meringue on top and place under broiler until brown.

Passover Pie Crust

2 cups walnuts or pecans

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/3 cup matzo cake meal

Place nuts in food processor and process until finely ground. Add sugar, butter and matzo cake meal and blend until mixture comes together. Place in shallow, 10- or 11-inch baking dish, pressing mixture evenly on bottom and up sides. Bake at 400 degrees 8 to 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool.

ROCKY ROAD BONBONS

1 cup semisweet Passover chocolate, cut into pieces

1/2 cup diced Passover marshmallows

1/2 coarsely chopped toasted pecans

1/2 cup toasted matzo farfel

Place chocolate pieces in top of double boiler over simmering water and melt, mixing until smooth.

In large mixing bowl, combine melted chocolate, marshmallows, pecans and farfel and mix well. Line baking sheet with wax paper and spoon mixture in small mounds, or fill ruffled paper candy cups.

Refrigerate until set. Transfer to large platter and serve. Makes about 36 Bonbons.

Note: Do not use dipping chocolate. This recipe can be doubled.