GOOD EGGS

Eggs, those neat packages of nature’s perfect food, with their low, low calories, 14 vitamins, 11 minerals, and protein quality that comes closer to mother’s milk than any other food, are well on their way to a deserved comeback after several decades in scientific and public disfavor.

Why, in the last three decades, have eggs become so maligned, blamed, blasted and defamed as a culprit in diseases of the heart? Why has consumption plummeted from 403 eggs per capita in 1945 to a mere 251 per capita in 1986? And are they still bad news?

Public perception of eggs, happily, is changing, based on scientific evidence that shows that eggs may not be the culprit they were once thought to be. There is a place for eggs in the diet of 75% of the population. The remaining 25%, who are considered to be at high risk for heart disease, need to watch not only their cholesterol levels but their overall fat intake.

Total fat--particularly saturated fat, and not cholesterol alone--is now thought to have the highest impact on risk of heart disease.

“The primary concern is saturated fat in the diet. For that reason I don’t believe there should be as much concern about eggs as there should be about the amount of both saturated fat and total fat intake in the diet,” said Rita Storey, national media representative of the American Dietetic Assn.

“Some experts think that if you lower total saturated fat and other fats in the diet, you reduce the levels of blood cholesterol. It appears that the kinds and amounts of fat we eat from a broad variety of sources, not only eggs, has more of a link with blood cholesterol, the indicator of potential heart disease,” she said.

(Dietary cholesterol is the amount of cholesterol levels found in animal foods.)

Life-Style Habits

However, weight, exercise, life-style habits as well as genetic disposition also are indicators of levels of blood cholesterol for each individual.

For the majority of Americans who do not have problems with elevated cholesterol levels, it’s a matter of using eggs--nature’s perfect food--wisely.

To play it safe, the U.S. Dietary Guidelines and the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services advise moderating meat and egg consumption to allow for five to seven ounces, or the equivalent, from the meat/egg group per week (one egg is equivalent to one ounce of meat). The meat group is made up of foods such as meat, poultry, fish, eggs, legumes, beans and nuts.

The recommendation is to use one egg yolk per serving, without limiting the number of whites. The egg white contains protein, while the yolk contains the fat and cholesterol, as well as other nutrients. (The yolk, for instance, is an excellent source of lecithin, which counteracts cholesterol to some degree by acting as a emulsifier.)

Although no quantitative amount for dietary cholesterol intake is given in the U.S. Dietary Guidelines, other health sources, such as the Department of Health and Human Services, recommend a daily intake of dietary cholesterol not to exceed 300 milligrams. A single egg yolk contains 265 milligrams dietary cholesterol, which is why some experts recommend limiting the consumption of eggs.

Cholesterol is present in many foods, particularly foods containing fat. “Where there is fat, cholesterol is not far behind,” said Genevieve Ho Ph.D., nutrition adviser at the University of California Agricultural Extension Service in Los Angeles. Fatty meats, fat-containing cheeses, other dairy products and to a lesser degree shrimp also contain relatively high amounts of fat, hence cholesterol. Cholesterol also is hidden in bakery products, frozen desserts such as ice cream, and other processed foods in which saturated fats are used.

Cholesterol in Foods

For those interested in the levels of cholesterol in common foods, the new Home and Garden Bulletin No. 72, Nutritive Value of Foods, published by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, contains information on the amounts of cholesterol and sodium in commonly consumed foods. The booklet is available at the U.S. Bookstore, 505 S. Flower St., Level C, Los Angeles 90071, at a cost of $2.75.

It is estimated that a family of four could dine safely on a dozen eggs per week, allowing three eggs per person. On a restricted diet, one or two eggs per week are enough.

The Washington-based Egg Nutrition Board, the nutrition-education arm of the egg industry, defers to the U.S. Dietary Guidelines, which recommend that everyone know his/her cholesterol level and how many eggs to eat in order to avoid any health risk.

Eggs are second only to human milk in high quality protein and contain far more iron, Vitamin A, Vitamin B1 and riboflavin than cheese, milk or beef. Eggs also are excellent sources of other vitamins, such as A, D, E, K, B6 and B12, as well as thiamine, niacin, pantothenic acid, folic acid and biotin. Minerals present include calcium, phosphorus, sodium, chlorine, potassium, magnesium, iron, iodine, manganese, zinc, cobalt and copper.

Eggs are low in calories: An average large egg contains about 80 to 85 calories; medium size eggs have 75 to 80 calories, and small eggs about 40 to 50.

The low cost of eggs (about 20 cents a two-egg serving) compared with 50 cents for 1/4 pound raw-weight meat and 40 cents for boneless chicken) makes eggs an excellent choice when planning low-cost meals. They are also are an excellent choice for the elderly, whose diets should be dense with nutrition while providing low calorie value. However, normal, healthy people should limit consumption to three or four eggs per week.

Even with the reasonable caveats and recommendations of the government and other health agencies, egg consumption continues to decline. Production, meanwhile, has increased.

Production Increase

“The increase in production is largely due to increase in population,” said Louis Raffel, president of the American Egg Board, an educational arm of the egg industry.

In 1976, egg production in the United States was 5.4 billion dozen while in 1986 it is 5.7 billion. Consumption, however, has declined from 270 per capita in 1976 to 251 per capita in 1986, although consumption is slightly higher in California at 255 per capita. Most egg consumption (66% of total consumed) is during breakfast.

In 1945, when most American families dined at home, consumption of eggs was at an all-time high--403 per capita.

The egg industry places some of the blame on public misconceptions from what they consider poor media reporting.

Robert Pierre, president of the California Egg Commission thinks that it’s a “pity” that the reputation of eggs has suffered publicly and that the negative image has plateaued.

“I think in time eggs will regain the stature they once had as one of nature’s perfect foods,” he said.

According to Pierre, widespread testing of 40,000 individuals throughout California by the California Egg Commission showed that not as many persons have cholesterol problems as the media and health organizations have indicated.

The test results showed that one of 10 individuals tested had high to moderately high levels of cholesterol (according to the National Institutes of Health), while eight out of 10 persons were found to have average to below-average cholesterol levels. Pierre pointed out that 95% of the population tested did not realize that the body produces 80% of blood cholesterol and that cholesterol is necessary for continued life.

But health problems are not the primary reason for the decline in egg consumption, according to Raffel.

“Life-style changes since World War II, as more women work outside the home, have greatly changed the way eggs are served and how often they are used in the home. Today a lot more eggs are eaten away from home in form of fast-food breakfasts. Eggs have also become more acceptable for meals other than breakfast,” said Raffel.

Most People Fry Eggs

Market research, according to Raffel, shows that frying eggs is the preferred method of cooking, but they also are enjoyed as omelets for lunch or dinner and are used as ingredients in many dishes. And the popularity of food processors has enabled the development of more and more recipes using eggs, according to Raffel.

White eggs are still preferred overall. Brown eggs are the favored egg in the Northeastern United States, where the Rhode Island Red hen predominates.

Fertilized-egg production constitutes a negligible portion of the market; these eggs usually come from private, backyard farms. Fertilized eggs rarely, if ever, are marketed commercially because commercially produced eggs are laid unfertilized, without roosters on the property in California. Biologically, hens lay unfertilized eggs and do so throughout their three-year lifetime, unless fertilized by a rooster’s sperm. Even if fertilized, it would be impossible to determine fertilization until the second day of egg candling. Most eggs produced commercially are marketed within the day, making detection near impossible.

Health-food advocates’ claims that fertilized eggs are more nutritious have no basis in scientific fact, according to Raffel. Nor does the theory that brown eggs are more nutritious than white ones.

“Brown eggs have a harder shell,” Raffel said, “but otherwise they are no more or less nutritious than white eggs.”

There are few foods more versatile than the egg. You can use them for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks several times a week, for a healthful addition to your menu.

Eggs can be fried, poached, baked, scrambled or cooked in their shell. Eggs can leaven souffles or thicken sauces and custards. Eggs also are used to bind ingredients such as meat loaf, coat foods for frying and emulsify and clarify sauces.

Breakfast on the Run

You can use an egg for an instant pick-me-up with a cup of orange juice and a tablespoon of honey for a breakfast on the go. Add hard-cooked eggs to salads or beat egg whites into hot soup for a protein lift.

You can fill popover and muffin halves with scrambled, shirred or poached eggs and serve them topped with exciting sauces as well.

We’ve put together several recipes using eggs that might inspire their use for brunch, lunch, a light supper or as appetizers.

A wonderful brunch or breakfast idea is to serve an egg wrapped in a filo package as a meal in a bundle. An egg is simply dropped on several layers of filo, topped with dill-flavored feta and wrapped to bake or fry for a crisp meal-in-a-dish.

An Italian frittata becomes a party dish with shrimp and lobster baked inside.

A burrito idea uses scrambled eggs and duck sausage (you can use any other sausage) for an informal do-it-yourself breakfast or brunch.

An appetizer inspired by a similar dish served at French restaurants calls for baked egg whites served piled in their shell with sour cream and caviar. Potato pancake baskets are filled with scrambled eggs and sour cream with caviar. They can be an elegant luncheon or brunch dish.

BURRITO WITH SCRAMBLED EGGS AND DUCK SAUSAGE

1/2 pound duck or game sausage, diced or thinly sliced

1 small onion, minced

1 small clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

2 zucchini, diced

1/2 green pepper, diced

1 medium tomato, diced

6 eggs, beaten

Salt, pepper

6 large tortillas, heated

Salsa

Sour cream

Caviar

Cilantro sprigs

Saute sausage, onion and garlic in butter until sausage is almost cooked. Add zucchini, pepper and tomato and cook until zucchini is tender. If any liquid remains in pan, cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until liquid evaporates.

Pour in eggs and scramble with other ingredients until eggs are set. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon about 3/4 cup egg mixture onto each tortilla. Roll up, tucking in ends to form firmly wrapped burrito. Serve topped with salsa, sour cream and caviar. Garnish with cilantro. Makes 6 servings.

EGGS AND FETA CHEESE FILO BUNDLES

2 tablespoons minced onion

2 tablespoons minced fresh dill weed or 2 teaspoons dry dill weed

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

Pepper or paprika

16 sheets filo dough, cut into 9-inch squares

1/4 cup melted butter or oil

4 eggs

Combine onion, dill, feta cheese and pepper to taste in bowl. For each filo bundle, stack 4 sheets filo dough, cut into 9-inch squares, brushing each sheet with melted butter. Brush top sheet with melted butter.

Break 1 egg onto center of sheet. Divide onion-cheese mixture evenly over egg, being careful not to break egg. Fold filo square envelope fashion to form compact square or rectangle bundle by folding bottom third of sheet over egg. Fold in both sides of sheet, then fold top third over to form packet. Seal edges with water. Pierce tops with fine wood pick to allow steam to escape, being careful not to penetrate egg. Brush entire surface with melted butter and place on baking sheet. Bake at 375 degrees 20 to 30 minutes or until golden. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

FRITTATA DI MARE

2 small shallots, minced

2 tablespoons chopped chives

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

12 large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1/4 pound scallops

1 lobster tail, peeled and sliced

1/2 cup dry white wine

6 eggs

Salt, pepper

Saute shallots and chives in butter in flame-proof skillet until shallots are tender. Peel shrimp, scallops and lobster tail, reserving shells. Slice scallops, if large, and lobster tail. Set shellfish aside.

Add wine and shells to shallot mixture and cook over high heat until wine is absorbed and pan is glazed. Discard shells. Add shrimp, scallops and lobster tail and cook, tossing, 1 minute. Beat eggs with salt and pepper to taste and pour over seafood. Cook, pushing in sides of mixture until eggs are partially set. Stand tails of shrimp upright, using fork to adjust. Place skillet under broiler and broil until surface of eggs is set and golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature. Cut into wedges to serve. Makes 6 servings.

EGGS IN POTATO PANCAKE BASKET

6 eggs

2 tablespoons whipping cream

1 tablespoon fresh dill or 1 teaspoon dill weed

Paprika

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/4 pound smoked salmon, cubed

Potato Pancake Baskets

Sour cream

Caviar

Sprigs of dill

Beat eggs, whipping cream and dill, adding paprika, salt and pepper to taste. Melt butter in skillet. Add eggs and scramble until done as desired. Just before eggs are cooked, stir in salmon. Spoon about 1/4-cup into each Potato Pancake Basket. Top each with sour cream and dollop of caviar. Garnish with sprigs of dill. Makes 8 servings.

Potato Pancake Baskets

3 medium potatoes, preferably russets

2/3 cup flour

1 large egg

Salt, pepper

Oil or shortening for deep frying

Peel potatoes and grate into bowl. Add flour and egg and blend well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat oil until very hot, about 400 degrees. Spread enough batter onto entire surface of 4-inch, fine-wire mesh strainer or commercial basket-molding implement. Plunge into hot oil and cook until golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from oil at once to avoid over-cooking and absorption of excess oil. Drain on paper towels. Makes 8 baskets.

SHIRRED EGGS WITH CAVIAR

6 eggs

Salt, pepper

Paprika

Sour cream

Caviar

Toast points

Crack egg near top and save cap for later use. Place egg carton in baking pan half filled with water. Separate eggs, reserving yolks for other use.

Place shells in carton openings. Add salt, pepper and paprika to taste to egg whites and beat until very stiff, but not dry. Pile whites back into shells. Bake at 350 degrees 10 to 12 minutes or until eggs are barely firm. Top with dab of sour cream and caviar. Serve in egg cup as first course with toast points. Makes 6 servings.

CALIFORNIA EGGS BENEDICT

4 bagels

8 slices bacon, halved

8 slices thinly sliced tomato

8 slices avocado

8 eggs, poached

Blender Hollandaise

Sour cream

Salsa

Split and toast bagels. Cook bacon until crisp. Top each bagel half with 2 bacon halves, tomato, avocado, then poached eggs. Spoon Blender Hollandaise over eggs. Dollop with sour cream and salsa. Makes 4 servings.

Blender Hollandaise

1/2 cup butter or margarine

4 egg yolks

2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

Dash black pepper

Heat butter until bubbly. Meanwhile, place egg yolks, lemon juice, salt and pepper in blender. Turn blender on and off quickly. Then turn to high speed and slowly add hot butter in very thin but steady stream. Turn off blender and serve immediately. Makes about 1 cup.

EGGS IN PITA POCKET

4 eggs

1/4 cup milk

2 teaspoons chopped green onion or chives

2 teaspoons chopped cilantro

1 teaspoon minced mint

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

Dash salt, optional

1 tablespoon butter

2 pita breads, halved

1 cup chopped tomatoes

1/4 cup shredded lettuce

Hot pepper sauce

Beat eggs, milk, onion, cilantro, mint, cheese and salt in bowl. Heat butter in 7- to 8-inch omelet pan or skillet. Pour in egg mixture and scramble to form soft curds. Do not overcook.

Place pita halves upright in loaf pan. Fill each half with 1/4 of cooked eggs, tomatoes and lettuce. Season to taste with hot pepper sauce. Makes 4 servings.

GOAT CHEESE SOUFFLE

1/3 cup butter or margarine

1/3 cup flour

2 tablespoons minced onion

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1 1/2 cups milk

1 cup crumbled goat cheese or feta cheese

6 eggs, separated

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Melt butter in large saucepan. Blend in flour, onion and mustard. Cook, stirring over medium-high heat until mixture is smooth and bubbly. Stir in milk all at once. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture boils and thickens. Remove from heat. Stir in cheese until melted.

In small bowl, beat egg yolks until thick and lemon colored, about 5 minutes. Blend small amount of hot cheese mixture into yolks. Stir yolk mixture into cheese mixture.

Beat egg whites with cream of tartar at high speed until stiff but not dry. Gently but thoroughly fold yolk mixture into whites. Carefully pour into buttered 2 1/2-quart souffle dish or casserole. Bake at 350 degrees 35 to 40 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

FOOD STYLING BY MINNIE BERNARDINO AND DONNA DEANE

CHINA FROM VILLEROY AND BOCH