MEN’S SPRING FASHION : MEN at WORK : 10 Californians--in Fields Ranging From Real Estate to Rock--Wear Looks for the Workplace and Beyond

Contemporary Italian design and looks reminiscent of Clark Gable movies of the ‘30s are the biggest influences now shaping men’s fashion. Both Italian-accented suits and menswear that emulates leading-man glamour work easily for men in entertainment and other unconventional industries. But this season, even downtown executives can feel comfortable in some of the newest looks.

Milanese design influence is apparent in suits that are cut wider than last season’s. Jackets button a bit lower in front. Trousers are roomy but taper at the ankle. This V-shaped silhouette--and new, nubby-textured fabrics--were first shown in collections by Giorgio Armani.

Shirts can be quite daring now. A number of designers are offering unusual updates on traditional styles. The most conservative of the new designs are white with dark, narrow stripes and dressy spread collars. A few designers have boldly altered classic white shirts by adding contrast-color piping. For an even more radical alternative, there are tailored shirts in decorative fabrics such as floral-print damask. Many spirited styles are made in Italy but have a flamboyance more readily associated with old Hollywood than modern Milan.

While the new corporate color in neckties is “power purple,” more adventurous neckwear options are wide ties made of Gable-era retro-print silks. White suits for evening--a look featured by trend-setting designers Ronaldus Shamask of New York and Richard Tyler of Los Angeles--are an even more obvious tribute to the golden age of movies.

Despite a few bold exceptions, the season overall is one of subtle changes rather than dramatic surges in style. Yet, true to their reputations, Los Angeles designers continue to explore new directions. Karl Logan’s silvery damask suit with its wide, unconstructed jacket and Emil Rutenberg’s fresh-looking, four-button jacket both push the limits of today’s menswear designs.

For ultimate L.A. flair, Tyler is showing a body-contoured jacket in striking green or yellow linen. But, he says, “most men try it on, get all excited, think about it, then buy black”--still the most popular color in town, especially after office hours.

Ten men tested a selection of these new spring looks on the job. Their findings: These clothes work.

Stylist: Joanna Dendel; assistant: Dario Scadapane; grooming: Matt Danon / HMS Bookings.