Proper Pan Is First Step Toward Better Cakes

A number of readers have requested information on baking cakes, particularly those made using some type of fat--butter, margarine, oil or vegetable shortening. Generically, they are called shortened cakes.

The simplest of these cakes is made with the fat plus sugar, whole egg, cake flour, liquid, baking powder and flavoring. The category, however, also includes white, chocolate, spice, gingerbread and pound cakes as well as those studded with raisins and nuts.

Cake making begins with selection and preparation of the baking pans. Proper size is important--too large a pan and the cake may not rise properly and is likely to brown unevenly; too small and the texture may be coarse or the batter could overflow before it sets--so be certain to use the size pan called for in the recipe.

Medium-weight shiny metal pans deflect some of the oven heat and produce a thin, evenly browned crust. For heavier, darker crusts, choose darker colored, glass and enamel pans that absorb and hold more heat. When using this latter type, reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees.

Greasing and flouring the pans will prevent the cake from sticking. Apply about one-half tablespoon of soft shortening with a pastry brush (Step 1) or crumpled wax paper, evenly coating the bottom and sides of the pan.

Sprinkle approximately the same amount of flour into the pan and tap and shake until it is evenly coated (Step 2). Invert the pan and tap out any excess.

As an added precaution against sticking, pans may be lined with wax paper or cooking parchment. Set the pan on a sheet of paper and trace around it (Step 3). Cut along the line with scissors (multiple liners may be cut at one time).

Place the liner in the bottom of the pan (Step 4). If using wax paper, it should be greased; this is not necessary for parchment. Pans with nonstick coating do not need to be greased, but a bottom liner will prevent too solid a crust from forming.

Future columns will be devoted to the conventional method of preparing the batter and baking shortened cakes.