Tooling Up: A Rookie’s Guide on What to Buy
Even if you are the kind of person who is better at banging your thumb than a nail, tools are as essential as a first-aid kit. You never know when you might need them to hang a painting, tighten a door knob or put together a fan when the air conditioning breaks.
Some of us are lucky enough to have a parent who sends us out on our own with everything from nuts and bolts to a power drill. Others inherit the tool kit along with a mate.
But for some, it’s difficult to know where to start and how to get what you need for the smallest investment.
“A cheap tool is false economy,” says Michael DiMenna, owner of Schumann Hardware in Baltimore. DiMenna, who grew up working in the store when his father owned the business, operates one of those old-fashioned places where customers ask for advice and get the right answers about their home repairs.
“Up to a point the cheaper tools are OK,” he says. “They perform to a relative degree of proficiency, but then one day they just won’t do the job anymore. The better tool will go the distance.”
What you are paying for in a good-quality tool is the steel, he says, and good steel means a hammer that won’t break when you pull out a nail or a screwdriver that has the right stuff to keep on tightening years later.
Many of the top-quality tools have a full replacement guarantee if the tool fails in normal use. Look for a “guaranteed forever” warranty.
Although the good-quality tools may cost a little bit more, they should last a lifetime in normal use and will allow you to be more accurate and efficient. Safety is another consideration. You are more likely to get injured with a cheap tool because of handles that can break or blades that are dull.
The following is a list of what should be in a basic tool kit based on an interview with DiMenna and research information from “The Home Hardware Handbook” by the editors of “Mother Earth News” and “The Complete Illustrated Guide to Everything Sold in Hardware Stores” by Tom Philbin and Steve Ettlinger.
A basic toolbox should cost in the $150-to-$175 range, depending on quality of tools selected.
Toolbox: Some experienced repair people prefer a fabric sack to tote around their tools, but DiMenna says the best bet is a solid box that can be stored easily in a closet. A 14-inch plastic box is suitable for renters; homeowners might consider a 19-inch metal version. Expect to pay between $6.98 and $15.98, depending on size and material.
Hammer: Finding the right hammer is like falling in love: You’ll know when it’s right. Pick up several hammers and see how they feel. You should feel a comfortable balance as you lift it to swing.
Many tradesmen prefer Fiberglas hammers with plastic grips, but a wooden handle is perfectly acceptable. Look for a cast rather than forged-steel claw hammer of smoothly polished steel in a 16-ounce weight, the ideal size for most carpentry. Price: About $19.
Screwdrivers: It’s a good idea to buy a cheap screwdriver for all the messy jobs, such as prying open cans. But look for good-quality steel in your workhorse screwdrivers. Square shank models can be gripped with a wrench for jobs that require added turning power. Either buy a basic set--a one-point and a two-point Phillips head and a quarter-inch and three-sixteenths-inch flat head--for about $4.50.
If you want to save space, look for a ratchet driver with interchangeable heads, at about $9. Some people who do a lot of home projects prefer the cordless power screwdrivers with four tips, but they aren’t essential and cost $18 to $20.
Slip-joint pliers: This is the exception to the “buy the best you can afford” rule, according to DiMenna. Unless you expect to be doing a lot of heavy work, select an inexpensive pair of 10-inch pliers for $3 to $5.
Curved-jaw locking pliers: Often called by the brand name Vise-Grips, these pliers appear to have a double handle. The jaws can be opened and set solid with a screw on the back of one of the handles. They work like a clamp or a small vise and can be used to free frozen nuts or to just hold something in place. Select the 10-inch size and expect to pay $6 to $12.
Needle-nose pliers: Some experts consider these as optional, but they are good to have around to reach into tight spots or to hold or bend wire in electrical work. Look for the best-quality 5- or 6-inch size you can find, preferably with insulated handles and a straight-jaw design. Most models have a built-in wire stripper. People who don’t do a lot of wire cutting can buy just this tool and forget the diagonal wire cutter. Price is about $7.
Diagonal wire cutters: These are used for everything from cutting wires and cotter pins to snipping dry flowers for arranging. Select a 5- or 6-inch size, depending on the size of your hands. Expect to pay between $8 and $12.
Adjustable wrench: Often these are known by the brand name Crescent wrench. Look for the best quality you can find because the cheaper versions do not grip as well. An 8-inch wrench will be acceptable for tightening or loosening nuts and bolts and small pipe fittings. Prices range from $8 to $14.
Crosscut saw: Used to cut boards across the grain, this is the basic handsaw for most projects. Select an eight-point saw (eight teeth to the inch) in a brand name and expect to pay $22 to $25. If you don’t have a lot of storage space, look for the smaller versions that fit inside a larger tool box.
Measuring tape: Even if you never pick up a hammer, you’ll need a good tape to measure for draperies or to determine the best size area rug. These steel tapes retract automatically into a case after use. A 12-foot long, one-half-inch wide tape should be sufficient for most jobs. It costs about $10.
Utility knife: Home repairers consider this one of the handiest tools because it can be used for everything from cutting wallpaper to drywall. The best versions have retractable blades and cost about $5.
Putty knife: Usually about 1-inch wide, these knives are squared off on the end and have plastic handles. They are used for applying putty to windows, or small spackling jobs. Buy one good quality knife (about $3) and one for about $1 for the dirty jobs.
File: Used for sharpening blades or tools. Select a 6- or 8-inch mill bastard (with grooves going one way) and pay about $3.50.
Power drill: A gun-shaped tool with a nosepiece, it can be used to grind, sand, polish and drill holes. Beginners often like the cordless models ($35 to $40), but if you want more muscle, select the traditional model ($25 to $30). Look for 1-3 horsepower, variable speed and reversible with a three-eights-inch nosepiece.
You’ll also need a starter collection of bits. Buy a twist drill set made of high-speed steel with sizes between one-sixteenth inch and one-quarter inch. It’s best to look for American-made rather than imports, according to DiMenna. A seven-piece set (about $8) will be fine for beginners; a 13-piece set is about $16.
Plastic goggles: Whenever you are using a drill, file or a chisel or using something that could splatter, such as paint thinner or stripper, you should use goggles for eye protection. Cost is about $4.
Plumber’s friend or plunger: A must to prevent expensive calls to the plumber. Look for a combination model with two cups, one inside the other. The smaller cup fits snugly in the toilet hole and can be retracted for use in sinks. Price: About $4.
Assortment boxes: You need to be prepared to hang a new poster when the stores are closed or to replace a missing bolt. Buy several of the plastic divided boxes filled with screws, bolts, nails, brads and tacks. They cost about $3 a box.
Carpenter’s level: The experts may fight about whether this is an essential tool, but anyone who has tried to hang shades or rods for drapes won’t argue. For those times when eyeballing won’t do, it’s a must. Look for at least an 18-inch level and pay about $5 to $10.
