COOKING & ENTERTAINING WITH STYLE : Elegant Exotic Experiments Provocative Pairings : <i> Blending their ethnic origins and food passions, four chefs create versions of the all-American soup and sandwich that are sophisticated enough for a dinner party</i>

At one time, “soup and sandwich” meant tomato in a bowl and American cheese between slices of white bread. But that was before Southern California’s current corps of chefs entered the scene. Blending their ethnic origins and passions with the all-American soup and sandwich, they came up with cross-pollinated hybrids sophisticated enough for even an elegant dinner party. But that’s only one reason to prepare them. Another is just as telling: They taste sensational.

Felix Salcedo of Sonora Cafe created a soup-and-sandwich menu that is distinctly southwestern. Or is it? The traditional flour-tortilla quesadilla is filled with American, Italian and French cheeses, spiked with sauteed Maui onions from Hawaii and sprinkled with fresh herbs that, presumably, are Californian. Serve it with two salsas, one of red chiles and one of cactus leaves. To go along, Tomato Sirloin Soup with Blue Corn Tortilla Chips combines traditional southwestern soup ingredients with slices of sirloin, stir-fried the Asian way.

Michael Kang of Five Feet presents a dinner with a decidedly Asian influence but one with European inspiration. A julienne of colorful vegetables brings beauty to a light chicken stock. Ravioli-like dumplings made of won tons filled with goat cheese are creamy and sour-sweet. Kang suggests serving it with commercially made Chinese scallion cakes, split and filled with Chinese roast duck, shiitake mushrooms, pine nuts, sun-dried tomatoes and Parmesan cheese. The result is wonderful.

The imaginative mind of Joachim Splichal of Patina came up with a very American corn chowder served with tiny corn fritters. As an accompaniment, he recommends a skewered sandwich of bacon, shrimp and lettuce that is deep fried until crunchy and served with fresh basil mayonnaise.

From Hans Rockenwagner, owner-chef of FAMA and Rockenwagner, comes an elegant mixed-metaphor meal. The sandwich, which begins with Italian-inspired grilled polenta, is topped with lightly cooked, sushi-quality tuna, a Japanese inspiration. From India, a mango salsa, but one made with balsamic vinegar, is the perfect accompaniment. Serve it with Rockenwagner’s delicious cold cucumber soup, topped with a scoop of sorbet -like frozen cucumber ice, liberally seasoned with sesame seeds, a common Asian ingredient. SONORA CAFE QUESADILLA

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1 medium Maui onion, sliced into rings

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon fresh oregano

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh basil

1 teaspoon fresh marjoram

1 teaspoon sweet dry Marsala

4 ounces grated mozzarella cheese

4 ounces grated Cheddar cheese

6 (5-inch) flour tortillas, or larger if desired

4 ounces Brie, sliced 1/4-inch thick, 3 inches long

Red Chile Salsa

Fresh Chile and Nopales Salsa

In medium skillet, saute onion in 4 tablespoons butter over low heat, stirring often. When onion is translucent, add garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add fresh herbs and Marsala and cook for 2 minutes more, or until mixture is dry. Remove to large mixing bowl. Cover loosely and refrigerate until cooled.

Combine mozzarella and Cheddar with cooled onion mixture. Sprinkle 1/4 cheese mixture over each tortilla. Top with Brie slices. Fold tortilla in half, pressing gently. (Can be made up to 2 hours in advance.)

Brush cast-iron skillet with remaining butter. Cook quesadilla over low heat on both sides, turning carefully, until lightly browned. (Be careful that butter does not burn.) Transfer to greased baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until cheese melts, about 1 to 2 minutes. Slice into serving wedges and serve with Red Chile Salsa and Fresh Chile and Nopales Salsa. Red Chile Salsa

3/4 pound chimayo chile, roasted, peeled, seeded and minced (see note)

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

1 clove garlic, roasted and peeled

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Place all ingredients in non-reactive, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to boil and simmer until thickened, about 25 minutes. Makes about 1 cup.

Note: Red bell pepper or any other red chile may be substituted. Fresh Chile and Nopales Salsa

1/2 pound dethorned nopales (cactus) leaves

1 pound green poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced

2 cloves garlic, roasted, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon toasted Mexican oregano

1 teaspoon fresh marjoram, finely chopped

1 cup rice vinegar

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Cut nopales into 1/4-inch chunks. Place all ingredients in non-reactive, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to boil and simmer until thick and well reduced, about 45 minutes. Makes about 2 cups. TOMATO SIRLOIN SOUP WITH BLUE CORN TORTILLA CHIPS

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small onion, chopped (about 1 cup)

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 cup chopped carrots

3 small red bell peppers, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped

1/2 teaspoon dry Mexican oregano

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

2 bay leaves

1 quart strong beef stock

1 quart tomato juice

8 whole Roma tomatoes, oven-roasted until soft, peeled and chopped

1 1/4 teaspoons sugar

Hot red pepper sauce

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound lean sirloin, sliced

1/4-inch thick across grain

Salt

2 cups unsalted blue or yellow

corn tortilla chips

Red, yellow and green bell peppers,

avocado chunks and cilantro for garnish

In Dutch oven, heat olive oil and saute onion until soft. Add garlic, carrots, bell peppers, rosemary, oregano, thyme and bay leaves and continue sauteing until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Add stock, tomato juice, tomatoes and sugar, bring to boil, turn down heat and simmer for 25 minutes, skimming as necessary. Season to taste with pepper sauce and black pepper. If desired, strain to remove vegetables. Set aside.

Sprinkle sirloin with pepper. Heat about 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in large cast-iron skillet. Saute or stir-fry sirloin until desired doneness. Add to soup. Season soup to taste with salt.

Pour soup into serving bowls, garnish with tortilla chips, bell peppers, avocado and cilantro. FIVE FEET CHINESE SCALLION CAKE

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

12 ounces grilled chicken breast, Chinese roast duck (see note) or any type smoked poultry or game

Sesame oil

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon mixed crushed peppercorns (black, white and pink)

1 tablespoon mixed, chopped fresh herbs (basil, tarragon, lemon thyme)

1 tablespoon minced garlic and ginger or shallots

1 tablespoon lemon or lime juice

4 large shiitake mushroom caps

Salt and pepper

4 (5-inch) Chinese scallion cakes, one 12-ounce package (see note)

2 cups grated, aged Parmesan cheese

4 tablespoons drained and chopped sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil

4 tablespoons roasted pine nuts or nuts of choice

4 tablespoons chopped yellow tomato

2 tablespoons chopped fresh opal basil

Fresh basil, chopped yellow tomato and grilled scallions, for garnish

Bone and cut chicken into small strips; then marinate in 2 tablespoons sesame oil, soy sauce, pepper, half of mixed herbs, garlic and ginger and lemon juice. Refrigerate for up to 3 hours. (If using Chinese roast duck or smoked fowl, toss strips only with sesame oil and chopped, fresh herbs.)

Remove stems from shiitake and discard. Wipe caps clean with towel and grill caps 1 to 2 minutes per side, until softened. (Or saute in 1 to 2 teaspoons vegetable oil.) Remove from grill and place in bowl. Drizzle lightly with sesame oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste; add remaining mixed, chopped herbs, and toss to completely cover. (That may be done up to 1 hour in advance.)

Split scallion pancake horizontally to form two rounds. Place on lightly oiled baking pan and bake at 400 degrees for about 5 to 8 minutes or until pancake just begins to get crispy. Remove from oven and sprinkle four halves with thin layer Parmesan cheese; then top each with shiitake cap, equal portions of chicken, sun-dried tomato and pine nuts, thick layer of remaining cheese, chopped yellow tomato and basil. Return to 400-degree oven and bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until cheese starts to melt. Remove from oven, top with remaining scallion cake halves, return to oven and bake 2 to 3 more minutes, or until heated through.

Remove pancakes from oven and carefully cut into quarters. Garnish plate with basil leaves, chopped yellow tomato and scallions.

Note: Chinese roast duck and Chinese scallion cakes are available in some Chinese groceries and restaurants. VEGETABLE SOUP WITH GOAT CHEESE WON TONS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1/4 green bell pepper, finely diced

1/4 red bell pepper, finely diced

1/4 yellow bell pepper, finely diced

4 ounces Montrachet or other

mild-flavored goat cheese

2 ounces mozzarella or Parmesan cheese

About 24 won ton wrappers

1 egg yolk, lightly beaten

48 ounces chicken broth

Dash saffron threads

Salt and pepper

About 1 cup mixed julienned carrot, snow peas, yellow bell pepper

1 green apple (Pippin or Granny Smith), cored and diced

Lemon wedges

Fill medium saucepan with water and bring to boil. Blanch diced bell peppers. Remove from water and immediately immerse in cold water. Drain well and set aside.

Combine cheeses and diced bell pepper. Place about 1 heaping teaspoon cheese filling in center of each won ton wrapper. Wet adjacent edges of wrapper with egg yolk, fold over to make triangle. Press firmly to seal well. (Won tons can be prepared to this point, dusted with cornstarch and frozen.)

Into large saucepan, pour chicken broth and bring to boil. Skim, if necessary. Reduce heat, add saffron and salt and pepper to taste.

Bring large saucepan filled with water to a boil. Add filled won tons and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, or until noodles are tender and cheese is melted.

Place about 2 tablespoons julienned vegetables and 3 cooked won tons in bottom of serving bowls. Pour broth over. Sprinkle with diced apple and lemon juice. FAMA GRILLED POLENTA WITH SEARED TUNA AND MANGO SALSA

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 teaspoons salt

3 cups cornmeal

Vegetable oil

12 to 18 ounces sushi-quality tuna

Mango Salsa

Radicchio

In large saucepan, bring 2 quarts water to a boil with salt. Sprinkle in half of cornmeal, stirring constantly in a clockwise direction. As mixture thickens, add remaining cornmeal, alittle at a time, reduce heat and cook, stirring constantly, for a few minutes more. Spread mixture 1/2-inch thick over non-stick baking pan. When cool, cut into diamond-shaped pieces that are 2 x 3 inches.

Place polenta pieces on wire mesh and grill for about 2 minutes per side or until golden. Set aside and keep warm.

Heat about 1 tablespoon oil in heavy skillet or wok. Quickly sear tuna, just until outside is cooked. Middle should remain uncooked. Slice into thin pieces. Place 2 grilled polenta pieces on plate. Top grilled polenta with several slices of seared tuna and then about 1 to 2 tablespoons Mango Salsa. Serve on plates garnished with radicchio .

Note: Leftover salsa can be frozen for several months. It is excellent with grilled fish and curry. Leftover grilled polenta is delicious reheated and served like potatoes as a side dish with grilled chicken, fish or beef. Mango Salsa

2 ripe mangoes, peeled, seeded and cubed

1/2 small red onion, diced

1/4 cup cilantro leaves

2 to 3 jalapeno chiles, seeded and finely chopped

Juice of 2 limes

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine mangoes, onion, cilantro, chiles, lime juice, vinegar, honey and salt and pepper. Refrigerate until 1 hour before serving. (Can be made up to 1 week in advance.) Makes about 5 1/2 cups. CUCUMBER SOUP WITH SESAME ICE

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup onion, chopped

2 large cucumbers, peeled, seeded and chopped

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 1/2 cups chicken stock

1 1/2 cups plain yogurt

Cayenne pepper

Sesame Ice

Fresh dill sprigs

In large saucepan, heat oil. Saute onion until soft. Add cucumber, vinegar and stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool. Pour mixture into blender and puree. Add yogurt, and blend to combine. Season to taste with cayenne pepper. Refrigerate until cold. Into chilled glasses or bowls, pour cucumber soup. Top with few tablespoons Sesame Ice and garnish with fresh dill. Sesame Ice

3 tablespoons white vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

1 English cucumber, peeled and seeded

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon minced, fresh dill

1 1/2 tablespoons toasted sesame seed

In small saucepan, heat vinegar and sugar until sugar dissolves. Puree cucumber in blender. Add sugar-vinegar mixture, salt, dill and sesame seed and blend. Place in metal bowl in freezer or ice cream maker and freeze until desired consistency. (If freezing in ice cream maker, freeze until thick but not yet solid. If chilling in freezer, remove from freezer every 10 minutes and whisk so that ice crystals don’t form.) PATINA FRIED SKEWER SANDWICH

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

28 medium shrimp, peeled, or

1 1/2 pounds lobster

Salt and pepper

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

6 medium plum tomatoes

2 large cloves garlic, minced

8 slices white sandwich bread

7 slices bacon, cooked

1 head Romaine lettuce

3 eggs, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon flour

Corn oil

Red and Yellow Bell Pepper Relish

Basil Mayonnaise

Season shrimp to taste with salt and pepper, and saute in 2 tablespoons olive oil in medium skillet until no longer translucent, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Blanch, peel, seed and slice tomatoes.

Brush bread slice with olive oil and sprinkle with a little garlic. Arrange 4 sauteed shrimp on bread slice. Top with tomato, lettuce leaf, 1 slice bacon, another slice of bread and press together. Repeat with remaining ingredients, beginning with olive oil and minced garlic, until all bread is used. Insert 4 long skewers, 1 in each of 4 corners of stacked bread. Trim off crusts and cut bread stack into 4 equal-size pieces. Beat egg with flour. Dip each skewered “sandwich” in egg mixture, and deep fry in 375-degree corn oil until golden, about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes.

Serve on leaf of Romaine lettuce with Red and Yellow Bell Pepper Relish and Basil Mayonnaise on side. Red and Yellow Bell Pepper Relish

1 red bell pepper

1 yellow bell pepper

1 teaspoon vinegar

Dash sugar

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt

Roast bell peppers under oven broiler or over flame of gas stove. Remove skin and seeds and julienne. Whisk together vinegar, sugar and olive oil, and season to taste with salt. Drizzle over roasted peppers. Makes about 1 cup. Basil Mayonnaise

2 shallots, peeled

1/4 cup packed basil leaves

1 cup mayonnaise

In food processor or blender, puree shallots and basil. Carefully fold into mayonnaise. Refrigerate until serving. CORN CHOWDER WITH CORN FRITTERS

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

5 ears corn, kernels removed, about 4 1/2 cups

1 red bell pepper

1/2 cup celery, diced

1/2 cup leeks, diced

1/2 cup onions, diced

1/2 cup potatoes, peeled and diced

1/2 cup carrots

2 tablespoons butter

1 1/2 quarts chicken stock

1 cup whipping cream

Salt and pepper

1/4 cup chopped chives

Corn Fritters

Bring large saucepan filled with water to a boil. Add corn and blanch. Remove corn and quickly cool in cold water. Drain and set aside.

Roast red pepper under oven broiler or over flame of gas stove. Remove skin and seeds and coarsely chop. (Half will be used in fritters, half as garnish sprinkled over chowder.)

Saute diced celery, leeks, onions, potatoes and carrots in butter until soft. Add corn and stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Add cream and simmer for 10 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, sprinkle with roasted red pepper and chopped chives and serve with Corn Fritters. Corn Fritters

1 cup water

1 cup cornmeal

1 tablespoon butter

1/2 cup bread crumbs

1 ear corn, kernels removed (about 1/2 cup)

1/4 cup diced red bell pepper

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1/2 teaspoon salt

Corn oil

In medium saucepan, bring 1 cup water to a boil. Add cornmeal and cook for 1 minute. Add 1 tablespoon butter and stir to thoroughly combine. Cool. Stir in bread crumbs, corn kernels, bell pepper, egg, chopped parsley and salt. Use hands to shape small dumplings (about 1 heaping teaspoon) out of mixture.

Heat about 1 cup oil to 375 degrees. Deep-fry dumplings until golden on all sides, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towel. Keep warm until serving. Makes about 3 dozen fritters.

PRODUCED BY ROBIN TUCKER FOOD STYLING: STEPHANIE PUDDY