The Nature of Organics : Organic food producers celebrated their entry into the mainstream at a recent gathering. They also debated organic farming’s future in light of 1989’s unprecedented controversy over pesticides.

After years of struggling for recognition and acceptance, the organic food industry celebrated a coming of age at a national convention here last week.

The formal occasion--the 10th Annual Ecological Farming Conference--found speakers and participants ecstatic about their new-found financial and social respectability. The joy was due to the unprecedented public attention focused on the organic philosophy and method of food production during the past 12 months.

As is usually the case with sudden successes, though, alternative agriculturists now find themselves in disagreement over key issues. For instance, there is even conflict within the community over the very definition of organic. But resolution of the disputes, which may ultimately determine the credibility of organic foods, were subliminated in the glee over the year past.

In 1989, produce without pesticide residues became a prized commodity and many of the 800 assembled for this event received both market acceptance and profit as a result.

“The current situation, in which organically grown food is considered mainstream, is an important moment in history,” said Jim Turner, an attorney for Potomac Partners, an environmental group in Washington. “People around the world are turning to those of us using organic techniques (for guidance). Today, we are every bit as legitimate as any other agricultural group. We have better ideas, opportunity and public support. It’s a dynamic time.”

The year-long prelude to the recent meeting, sponsored by the Committee for Sustainable Agriculture at the Asilomar Conference Center here, was unparalleled.

“It has been an extraordinary year of huge growth for us,” said Otis Wollan, executive director of the Sacramento-based sponsoring group. “We needed huge amounts of courage to respond when the nation said, ‘OK, organic: feed us.’ ”

And more California growers are experimenting with this environmentally sensitive process than ever before. Most are seeking alternatives to conventional farming with its reliance upon chemical solutions for weed, insect, mold and soil quality problems. In fact, alternative or sustainable agriculture are the phrases being used more frequently now to describe organic farming because the process has so many different aspects.

Some of the best data of the changes taking place comes from the California Certified Organic Farmers, the nation’s largest such association.

The Santa Cruz-based group reports record totals in both new members and total acreage in the state during the past year. (The trade group offers a voluntary inspection program to insure compliance with state regulations for organic produce.)

Membership increased 47% to 560 farmers in 1989. The total farmland enrolled in the program skyrocketed 127% to more than 66,000 acres during the same time period. Though impressive, these totals still represent a small fraction of the state’s cropland.

“I personally feel we are poised for another growth spurt in product availability, sales and public interest,” said Bob Scowcroft, executive director of California Certified Organic Farmers. “The organic movement has become an industry and there are business interests that are present in all 50 states . . . 1989 was an overwhelming, almost hysterical, movement to organic.”

Such enthusiasm was everywhere at the conference.

“By 1993, I’m forecasting that what is now called alternative agriculture will actually be conventional farming,” said Robert Rodale, president of Rodale Press in Emmaus, Pa. “By that time, what is now conventional farming will be considered alternative and they will be the fringe element.”

Despite the celebratory mood, the convention was reminded by a few speakers that a good year--even one of watershed proportions--does not necessarily herald a new era. Many wondered aloud whether their movement was a mere passing phase or the more hoped for evolutionary change in American farming.

Reductions are being made, albeit slowly, in the amount of chemical pesticides, fertilizers and other compounds used by agriculture. And veteran organic farmers, some with 25 years experience, rightfully take some credit for the change.

“There have been very positive signs of change since 1979,” said Wes Jackson, co-founder of the Land Institute in Salina, Kan., and a leading advocate of alternative agriculture. “Minds are changing very rapidly in the scientific and farm worlds . . . We’ve begun to turn the corner. (Ten years ago) the term organic carried negative connotations. “

However, Jackson warned that problems lie ahead.

“Sustainable agriculture will take time. The easy part is over,” he said.

A federal official who administers a $4.45 million annual grant program for research into alternative agriculture also acknowledged the evolution.

“People thought alternative agriculture was a phase and it would just disappear after awhile,” said Paul O’Connell, with the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Cooperative State Research Service in Washington. “But this (sector) has become more real than many people thought it would.”

The groups active in promoting alternative agriculture now are endorsing legislation in both Sacramento and in Washington that may clarify some of the confusion that surrounds organic food terminology. Solving this semantic issue may determine whether the industry maintains it current momentum.

In California, organic food interests are urging passage of A.B. 2012, which would tighten the state’s regulations on those items that can be considered organic. It also calls for greater state enforcement of established rules to lessen fraud. The bill would make California’s laws more consistent with those enacted in other states.

On the national level, Sen. Patrick Leahy (D-Vt.), is also sponsoring a bill, S. 1896, that would offer a consistent definition of organic throughout the country. There is some debate whether the federal legislation would supersede any similar effort in California or if the Leahy bill would apply only to those organic foods in interstate commerce.

Key to both pieces of legislation, though, is defining which compounds can be safely used in organic farming.

Approved materials lists for organic farming exist in about 20 states including California. Some guidelines are more restrictive than others. But the differences are important because only those substances considered natural--or derived from natural sources--could be used on organic crops. Synthetic compounds, with few exceptions, are prohibited.

Some of the permitted compounds include animal manures, bone meal, boron products, boric acid, copper sulfate, fish meal, kelp extracts, mined minerals such as phosphate, soaps and vermiculite.

Prohibited compounds include any synthetic fungicides, bactericides or fumigants, growth regulators, methyl bromide, organophosphates and sulfur dioxide.

“There is not enough research on organic compounds and what they might do to the environment,” said Kate Burroughs, owner of Harmony Farm Supply, an organic products merchant in Sebastopol. “People in conventional agriculture say to me, ‘You use toxic materials too; you’re not perfect.’ ”

Lynn Cloony, who represents a grower cooperative in Oregon, has done extensive research on the toxicity of compounds used in organic farming.

“We have to get rid of some of the natural compounds being used because they are too toxic,” she said. “We need to agree on a national materials list for approved compounds . . . There is a lack of consistency now.”

Other veterans of the process said that organic farmers may need to consider the use of some benign synthetic compounds on crops, as well.

“We need to look at the value of certain synthetic compounds and at the harm done by some of the natural products we are using now,” said Tom Willey, of T&D; Willey Farms in Fresno.

The dilemma facing the organic industry was best described by Zea Sonnabend, a member of California Certified Organic Farmers.

“Do we really want to be so restrictive that we can ensure consumers that organic food is 100% safe to eat or do we want to be less exclusive so more people grow organic and the overall food supply becomes safer?” she asked the audience.

The debate over the compounds used by the industry will continue as the state and federal organic foods bills make their way through the legislative process. Even so, those gathered for the Ecological Farm Conference feel that they’re on the right track.

Even the steady rains that fell throughout the three-day event were interpreted as a personal victory for the group.

“I believe this rain is a blessing on our work here,” said Willey. “Rejoice in it.”