Action Is Hot and Cold in This Park

Most winter visitors to the snow-clad Sierra Nevada are bundled up in ski clothes, but some are happiest in nothing more than their swimsuits.

Visitors who come to enjoy the hot springs don’t mind that the air temperature may be below freezing. At Grover Hot Springs State Park, the two outdoor thermal pools are a comfortable 72 degrees and a steamy 104 degrees.

There’s a greater choice of bathing temperatures over the state line in Nevada at Walley’s Hot Springs Resort, where seven open-air swimming and soaking pools are kept from 75 to 104 degrees. Cabins are available for bathers who become so relaxed that they decide to spend the night.

On a daylong circle excursion to the bi-state hot springs, you’ll enjoy High Sierra winter scenery and learn more about the area’s history. Along the route is the Genoa Bar, Nevada’s oldest saloon.

Driving north from Southern California, follow U.S. 395 along the eastern Sierra to Nevada’s Carson Valley, where side roads lead northwest from Minden to Walley’s Hot Springs.

For vacationers at South Lake Tahoe or its neighboring casino hotels in Stateline, Nev., follow U.S. 50 north to join Nevada 207/Kingsbury Grade over the mountains to Carson Valley. Then drive left (north) on Nevada 206 toward Genoa. Walley’s is about four miles up the highway, which parallels the old Pony Express trail.

Now a state historic site, the hot springs attracted travelers after David Walley and his wife opened a hotel there in 1862. Mark Twain was among its many guests. Two fires earlier in this century destroyed the hostelry and some outbuildings, but in 1980 the property was renovated and reopened.

Mineral water bubbling from wells at 140 degrees is cooled to varying temperatures before being pumped to modern pools, where bathers feel their tensions evaporate with the steam that rises in the bracing winter air. Other facilities include an exercise room with weight machines, saunas, steam rooms and two tennis courts.

You’ll pay $9 to use this rural spa, which is open every day from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Lockers and towels are included. Minimum age is 12 years. Massages and body wraps can be arranged with reservations. Call (702) 782-8155 or (702) 883-6556.

On Fridays and weekends, visitors can dine in style at the resort’s Zephyr restaurant, which serves lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Among the chef’s specialties are coconut shrimp and chicken Chardonnay.

Five historic buildings, including the old Minden train depot, have been redecorated as guest cottages. Nightly rates are $75/$110. Call the above numbers for reservations.

Two miles north of Walley’s Hot Springs is Nevada’s oldest settlement, Genoa. It was called Mormon Station when established as a trading post in 1851.

A replica of the original fort has a small museum, which reopens in May. Across the street is the Genoa Courthouse Museum, a two-story brick building that later served as a school after the county seat was moved to Minden in 1916.

Today Genoa is best known for the Genoa Bar, a saloon that’s been in operation since pioneer days, and a trio of restaurants--Pink House, Inn Cognito and Casentini’s.

There are also three B&Bs;: Orchard House, (702) 782-2640, Genoa House, (702) 782-7075, and Taylor House, (702) 782-3932. Nightly rates range from $45 to $55.

Drive east on Genoa Lane, then south on U.S. 395 to nearby Minden for other accommodations and dining spots. Call toll-free (800) 321-6983 for reservations at Carson Valley Inn, where 160 rooms are $49 on weekends, $39 weekdays. Eat at Katie’s, the inn’s 24-hour restaurant, or cross the street to fancier Fiona’s.

Neighboring Gardnerville is well known for three Basque restaurants--J&T;, the Overland Hotel and the Carson Valley Country Club--as well as a longtime favorite for prime rib, Sharkey’s.

Just west of Minden, follow Nevada 88 south over the state line and continue on California 88. Then turn south (left) on California 89 to Markleeville, and go west at the signs to Grover Hot Springs State Park.

In the late 1800s the hot springs belonged to the Grover family, which ran a hotel in Markleeville and invited guests to soak in the outdoor pools. Since buying the property 30 years ago the state has operated the hot springs, which are surrounded by Toiyabe National Forest.

Snow sometimes covers the access roads, so the two concrete pools of mineral water are open when weather permits. Normal weekend winter hours are 9 a.m. to 9 p.m Saturdays, and to 7 p.m. Sundays. Weekday hours are noon to 7 p.m., except Fridays when the pools remain open until 9 p.m.

Admission is $3 for adults, $2 for ages 18 and under; take your own towels and refreshments.

You can buy snacks in town at the Markleeville General Store, which first served silver miners in the 1860s.

You’ll also find food and drink at the Cutthroat Saloon, named for the trout that’s caught in local streams, not for the tavern’s clientele. You might have doubts, however, after noticing that the ceiling is decorated with brassieres.

Meals also are served up the highway in the cozy Country Cafe at Sorensen’s, a restful all-seasons resort in scenic Hope Valley. Follow California 89 northwest toward South Lake Tahoe.

Scattered in the woods are 23 cabins of differing styles, including a sod-roofed log structure from Norway. The cabins accommodate two to eight guests and cost from $55 to $175. Call (916) 694-2203 for reservations. Also ask about Hope Valley’s cross-country ski activities that are based at Sorensen’s resort.

Continue on California 89 to join U.S. 50 to South Lake Tahoe, and pick up U.S. 395 back to Los Angeles.

(California 89 southeast from Markleeville over Monitor Pass to U.S. 395 is closed in winter.) An alternate route home is via U.S. 50 west to Sacramento to pick up California 99 or Interstate 5 south.

Round trip from Los Angeles to Markleeville is 842 miles.