Recipes for Making Successes of Those Special Occasions : Cookbooks: The format of “Mexico’s Feasts of Life” is based on celebrations, with chapters on Christmas, weddings and birthdays. Some recipes are traditional; others, contemporary.

Oaxaca’s Chicken With Almond Mole (Almendrado) is a sumptuous dish little known north of the border. However, those who taste it find it a worthy rival to the chocolate-colored mole poblano that is served at Mexican restaurants in the United States.

As prepared by Mexican cooking authority Patricia Quintana, the sauce for Almendrado is fairly simple, requiring only one type of chile and few spices. Mole poblano (Puebla-style mole), on the other hand, is notorious for the many ingredients that go into the pot.

Almendrado’s richness stems from a large quantity of ground nuts, both almonds and peanuts. Quintana even grinds a croissant into the sauce. The recipe is in her latest book, “Mexico’s Feasts of Life,” written with Carol Haralson (Council Oaks Books: $39.95). This book follows the pattern of Quintana’s earlier “Taste of Mexico”--large size and an emphasis on striking photographs that capture the flavor of the country as well as its food. Ignacio Urquiza photographed both books.

As the title indicates, “Feasts” follows a format based on celebrations. Almendrado appears in a section devoted to christening parties. Other chapters cover Christmas, weddings and birthdays, Mexican Independence Day, Lent and the Day of the Dead. Some recipes are traditional; others show a contemporary touch, for Quintana espouses both approaches.

During a brief stop in Los Angeles to talk about the book, Quintana prepared miniature sweet tamales flavored with pineapple and coconut. Working with her was John Sedlar, chef at Saint Estephe in Manhattan Beach. Along with other chefs, Sedlar participated in a cooking seminar given by Quintana in Mexico last year. In return, he prepared a dinner during her visit featuring his own brand of contemporary southwestern food.

Here is the Almendrado recipe. In the book, Quintana presents first the traditional recipe, then suggests a light alternative composed of thinly sliced poached chicken fanned over a ladleful of the sauce thinned with chicken broth.

PATRICIA QUINTANA’S CHICKEN WITH ALMOND MOLE (Almendrado)

10 cups water

2 medium white onions, quartered

2 heads garlic, roasted and peeled

1 (4-inch) stick cinnamon

8 whole cloves

Salt

2 small chickens, cut in serving pieces, or 4 whole or 8 split chicken breasts, about 4 1/4 pounds total

Almond Sauce

1 (7-ounce) can jalapeno chiles

3/4 cup blanched almonds or peanuts, finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Corn tortillas

Bring water to boil in large saucepan or Dutch oven. Add onions, garlic, cinnamon, cloves, salt to taste and chicken. Simmer 25 minutes, or until chicken is partially cooked. Cool chicken in broth, then remove and drain. Strain and reserve broth.

Add chicken to Almond Sauce and simmer 25 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve chicken and sauce garnished with canned jalapenos, chopped nuts and parsley. Accompany with hot corn tortillas. Makes 8 servings.

Almond Sauce

4 dried ancho or California chiles

1 1/4 cups lard or oil

1 1/2 medium white onions, quartered

8 cloves garlic

2 cups almonds, blanched

1 cup unsalted roasted peanuts

1 (4-inch) stick cinnamon

4 whole cloves

16 black peppercorns

1 croissant, torn in pieces

4 large tomatoes, roasted

Salt

2 slices white onion

Reserved chicken broth

Wash chiles, then roast lightly on griddle. Remove stems, seeds and veins. Soak in hot water until softened.

Heat 3/4 cup lard or oil in large saucepan. Add onions, garlic, almonds, peanuts, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns and croissant. Cook 25 minutes. If mixture begins to stick, add little more oil or lard. Place mixture in food processor or blender. Add tomatoes and drained chiles and process until pureed.

Heat remaining 1/2 cup lard or oil in saucepan. Add onion slices and cook until browned. Stir in pureed mixture and cook until fat separates and bottom of pan can be seen when mixture is stirred. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add 2 to 3 cups reserved chicken broth or as much as needed to thin sauce lightly. Add chicken and proceed as directed.