No More Hand-Me-Downs

THE MUSIC VIDEO: Janet Jackson, “Escapade” from the “Rhythm Nation 1814” album, A&M; Records

THE SET-UP: Apple-cheeked, perky, pop singer meets the Contras at Carnaval.

THE SCENE: Ninety extras dressed as pirates, butterflies, golden birds and Gypsies dance through the South American/Mexican adobe corner of Universal’s back lot. Female dancers in South African tribal costumes swirl down dusty streets, batik dresses and head wraps with beads and feathers flying; a zoot-suited voyeur in a monkey mask sits in the cantina patio. Soldiers carrying semiautomatic weapons cruise the background. Jackson appears in the middle of this midday parade wearing last night’s club clothes. She’s dressed in black, head-to-toe.

THE LOOK: Jackson attempts a feminine effect, with a sexy, one-eye-covering hairdo and a long, fitted jacket, quite a change from her military cadet clothes and what looks like brother Michael’s hand-me-downs. She is guided by stylist Lauren Landau, who has worked with costumer Bill Whitten on Jackson--Janet and Michael--projects before soloing on “Escapade.” Landau is stitching away at Jackson’s wardrobe for an upcoming world tour. Landau’s wardrobing clients include Mick Jagger, Keith Richards and Sting.

THE LABELS: Landau says this video has more stage costumes than “fashion.” But Jackson’s labels shriek fashion. The mid-thigh-length fitted jacket with turned-back cuffs is from Paris-based Azzedine Alaia; the red blouse with gold threads, and the black gloves, are from L.A.’s own forward guard, Richard Tyler. Jackson’s backup singers and dancing partners are dressed in first-string designer threads--Romeo Gigli, Yohji Yamamoto and Matsuda.

THE STORES: The Alaia jacket came from Alaia in Paris, but there is an Alaia boutique in Beverly Hills, and Maxfield also carries the label. Richard Tyler’s clothes are sold locally at Tyler Trafficante. Jackson’s black suede boots are from I. Magnin. Her large hoop earing with a key dangling from it is a duplicate of a key she wore as a child that unlocked one of the cages in Michael’s menagerie.

THE PAYOFF: To date, Janet has borrowed heavily from the Jackson family style. Now she has taken one baby-sister step away from the Jackson pack. She will have to take bigger strides in costuming and choreography to develop a look that is more personal.