Democracy Puts Chile Back on Tourist Map

World Travel Watch is a monthly report designed to help you make informed judgments about travel throughout the world. Because conditions can change overnight, always make your own inquiries before you leave home. In the United States, contact the nearest passport agency office; abroad, check in with the nearest American embassy .

SOUTH AMERICA

Chile: More than 16 years of military rule came to an end March 11 when Gen. Augusto Pinochet, who seized power in a violent coup in 1973, passed the presidential sash to civilian president-elect Patricio Aylwin. The new government took power in a mood of national reconciliation.

Pinochet’s autocratic government left Chile with serious human-rights scars that may take time and growing pains to heal, but it also left behind a strong economy with low inflation and unemployment, and a declining foreign debt, a situation unknown elsewhere on the continent.

The tourism infrastructure throughout the country is in good shape, and travel by road and rail is efficient. Train travel between Santiago and Puerto Montt evokes romantic images of a pre-airline era, and is a civilized way to go. The two Chilean air carriers, Lan Chile and Ladeco, provide extensive service between Santiago and Antofagasta and Arica in the north, and Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas in the south.

Natural attractions draw adventure travelers from all over the world to hike in the grandeur of Torres del Paine National Park or raft the white water of the Rio Bio-Bio.

The Bio-Bio is recognized among white-water enthusiasts as one of the world’s great rivers, but it may not exist much longer. Work is already under way to build a series of dams to harness its hydroelectric potential, and it’s likely that the winter of 1991 (Chile’s summer) will be the final season for rafting.

A U.S. environmental organization, Ancient Forest International, is spearheading a drive to convince the Chilean government to save the river, substituting revenue from low-impact and adventure tourism for development gains that the dams would provide, but it may be too late. Sobek, the California-based company that pioneered rafting the Bio-Bio in 1978, plans a full season next year.

No immunizations are required. Drinking bottled water throughout the country is advised, although tap water is considered potable in most cities.

CENTRAL AMERICA and CARIBBEAN

Guatemala: There have been recent incidents of banditry on hiking trails up volcanoes near Antigua and Guatemala City. Exercise caution if climbing the mountains, and go with a group.

Haiti: The military government of Prosper Avril recently fell and was replaced by a civilian government led by Supreme Court Justice Ertha Pascal-Trouillot, the country’s first woman president. Hopes are high that the new government will stabilize the country, but the situation remains volatile. Defer nonessential travel.

Mexico: In an effort to reduce air pollution in Mexico City, a plan to restrict traffic in the city is in force, and includes private tourist vehicles with non-Mexican registration. The plan is based on the last digit of the license plate, with restrictions as follows: Monday, no vehicles with license plates ending in 5 or 6; Tuesday, no plates ending in 7 or 8; Wednesday, none ending in 3 or 4; Thursday, none ending in 1 or 2; Friday, none ending in 9 or 0; Saturday and Sunday, all vehicles may drive. Violations are punishable by impoundment and a $115 fine.

Nicaragua: Travel conditions in this troubled country are likely to improve as the opposition government assumes power following the Sandinista defeat in February’s election. The planned disbanding and repatriation of contra forces, if it goes smoothly, should demilitarize the country and reduce the risks of travel.

EUROPE

Romania: Ethnic strife recently erupted in Transylvania between Romanians and Hungarians as this country continues down its rough road to reform. Tensions are likely to remain high. Exercise caution.

Soviet Union: Paying for goods and services in hard currency is widespread, but is legal only in designated hotels, restaurants and hard currency stores. Unsuspecting foreigners who use hard currency in markets or taxis, or who buy rubles on the black market are subject to arrest. Strict visa regulations require that a lost or stolen visa be immediately reported to the Soviet sponsoring agency so that a new one can be issued before departure. Americans encountering problems leaving the country should immediately contact the the American Embassy at 252-2341 through 252-2459, or the U.S. Consulate General in Leningrad at 274-8235.

ASIA

India: Due to continuing unrest, Kashmir, one of India’s most beautiful regions and a popular tourist destination, is closed to foreigners. The tensions derive from a Muslim secessionist movement trying to establish autonomy in the state and eventual alignment with Pakistan.

When the state will reopen for foreign visitors is anyone’s guess. Posters have appeared warning the public not to fly on Air India to or from Srinigar. Such warnings could be from militant groups, and so terrorist acts cannot be ruled out.

Rules on travel to restricted areas have been relaxed in recent months, and it may soon be possible to travel to the Himalayan state of Sikkim without obtaining a permit in advance. A permit is easily obtained when applying for an India visa, but getting one in India requires applying to the Home Ministry. Soon it may be possible to obtain a permit on arrival in Gangtok, the state capital.

Nepal: Demonstrations for a multiparty system occur sporadically in Katmandu and nearby Bhaktapur and Kirtipur, but usually are quickly dispersed by authorities. Travel and tourism remain unaffected, although tensions exist and could flare at any time. Trekking in the mountains is safe for the most part, but there have been incidents of harassment and robbery. Do not trek alone.

Tibet: The summer season for travel to Tibet looks promising, with direct flights between Katmandu and Lhasa due to resume today and continue through December. Overland travel is open, and many companies in Katmandu are running tours. Martial law remains in effect in Lhasa, and rules on group travel are still being enforced. This means that foreigners must travel in groups no smaller than three and must be accompanied by a guide in Lhasa.

AFRICA

Sudan: A high potential for terrorist acts exists in Khartoum and a curfew is strictly enforced from 11 p.m. to 4:30 a.m. Respect all roadblocks, avoid travel to the south because of continuing hostilities and exercise caution in western Darfur Province, especially along the Chad and Libya borders. All currency and traveler’s checks must be declared on arrival and departure, and the declaration form is valid for 60 days. All foreigners staying for more than two months must deposit their funds in foreign currency accounts.

Uganda: The government is using a controversial counter-insurgency program in eastern and western regions, rounding up civilians and placing them in guarded camps to isolate guerrilla forces. The rebels pose little real threat to the government, but drain its resources. Avoid travel to northern areas including the towns of Kumi, Soroti, Lira and Gulu, and north to the borders with Kenya and Sudan. Travel by road to Arua in the West Nile region is not advised, and Kabelaga National Park should be avoided. Always carry your passport with valid visa to avoid delays at police roadblocks.

SOUTHEAST ASIA

Burma: Travel to Burma is reopening at the same time that the military government is in the middle of a massive forced relocation aimed at removing dissidents from urban areas to outlying regions where they can be watched more easily. Observers estimate that 500,000 people are being moved to settlements devoid of electricity and running water and where disease is widespread, evoking memories of Khmer Rouge activities in Cambodia.

The first multiparty elections in three decades are scheduled for May 27, but with most leading opposition politicians under house arrest, the elections probably won’t mean much. The potential for demonstrations at that time is high. Travelers who wish to see the country’s main tourist sites of Rangoon, Mandalay, Pagan and Inle Lake can make arrangements through Top Deck Tours, a British budget travel company with representatives in Bangkok and Katmandu. Minimum group size is 15 for a maximum stay of 14 days. No individual travel is permitted.

Philippines: Negotiations on the future of American military bases are scheduled to resume this month, and will probably be accompanied by anti-American demonstrations outside the U.S. Embassy. Such demonstrations are directed at official U.S. policy and don’t affect individual Americans. Filipinos retain a sincere fondness for Americans and are very welcoming.

For more information on safety concerns in countries you may be visiting, contact the Citizens Emergency Center, U.S. Department of State, Washington, D.C. 20520, (202) 647-5225 .