Wine of the Week

1987 Boeger Merlot ($12.50)-- I have always liked the red wines of Greg Boeger, who plies his trade in remote El Dorado County, near Sacramento. This ’87 Merlot continues his long tradition with this variety. The grapes grow on a 2,300-foot peak; but instead of wringing blackstrap flavors from the mountain grapes, Boeger makes a fruity, elegant and refined wine, with deep flavors graced by lower tannins. Delicate aromas of tea, tobacco and tarragon add complexity to the cherries, and the finish is smooth and rewarding. A wine to consume now and during the next three to five years. Also worth noting is the fine 1986 Boeger Cabernet ($11), with delicate herbal notes and a round, lush finish.