Jicama: The Raw Truth

Pachyrrhizus erosus means “thick root which is gnawed,” which is really a pretty good description of jicama. There’s no question that it’s a root. It looks like a turnip that has swelled up hugely and turned brown, but it has a lighter texture, more like that of a radish. Like a radish, it is usually gnawed raw.

The flavor is starchy and blandly earthy, like a sweetish potato or a dryish and not-so-sweet apple, with perhaps a hint of celery dipped in library paste. It’s mostly a texture treat, the Mexican equivalent of water chestnut.

Because it’s mild as well as slightly crisp, it’s usually put in salads for lightness and contrast, but its sweetness goes with citrus flavors and its blandness makes it a good foil for red pepper. Often it’s simply sliced and sprinkled with lime juice and chiles. Probably most Californians first learned of jicama in the salad pico de gallo , where jicama chunks are mixed with orange slices and hot pepper. The traditional Mexican ensalada de Noche Buena , served on Christmas Eve, combines the same ingredients with pineapple, bananas and pomegranate seeds.

It can also be cooked, which slightly enhances the flavor, but robs it of its textural charm. For the thick gnawed root, the future looks raw.