FRESH FROM THE GARDEN : Attack of the Summer Squash
The warm Southern California summers provide the climate summer squash needs to proliferate--and proliferate it does. In fact, one need only mention zucchini and most gardeners will begin to smile. Lots of sunshine and very fertile soil are the fundamentals for raising a boom crop of this versatile vegetable.
Part of a botanical family that includes winter squash, pumpkins, cucumbers and melons, summer squash comes in a variety of colors and shapes. Because almost all varieties of summer squash grow in bushes, they are ideal plants for small gardens. Vining types such as Zuccheta Rampicante can be grown on trellises, and bush types do well in large containers.
Zucchini is the most popular type of summer squash. Dark green skin and long, cylindrical shape are characteristics of the most common zucchinis. A few good hybrids of this zucchini types are Chefini, Ambassador and Aristocrat.
All of these will produce tender, flavorful squash--the key is in harvesting at the proper time. Ideally, zucchini should be picked daily when small and firm. As gardeners quickly learn, a zucchini left on the vine even one day too long can balloon to monumental size. Although these giant fruits can be used for stuffing or purees, their flavor and texture are not ideal.
There are a number of nice alternatives to traditional green zucchini. Greyzini is a green-gray and has excellent flavor and crunch. Gold Rush is a popular yellow zucchini, and Gourmet Globe, a round zucchini, provides a different shape. Planting a non-hybrid can give you delicious fruit without overwhelming quantity. Zuccheta Rampicante is a pale green, climbing Italian summer squash that looks beautiful trellised against a fence or a wall.
Yellow summer squash is available in straightneck and crookneck varieties. Popular varieties of straightneck include Early Prolific Straightneck, which bears cream-colored fruit; Goldbar, which has a smooth, golden yellow skin; and Butterstick Hybrid, a producer of golden fruit with a cream-colored interior and a nutty flavor. For crookneck squash, try planting Butter Swan, a smaller, full crook-neck ideal for limited space; Yellow Summer Crookneck; Early Summer Crookneck and Seneca Prolific.
Scallop squash, also known as pattypan squash, is a round fruit with scalloped edges. Sunburst Hybrid bears a bright, golden yellow fruit with a green sunburst pattern at each end; Peter Pan Hybrid is a meatier squash, light green in color; and Early White Bush Scallop is a flatter fruit with pale green skin and white flesh.
Crinkly, yellow flowers are the predecessors of squash fruit. Don’t be alarmed if the first flowers to appear on the bush aren’t followed by fruit. Fruit will not appear until both male and female flowers emerge. Generally, the male flowers blossom first, sometimes as long as two weeks before the female flowers burst forth.
Squash flowers are a delicacy in themselves, and are ideal for stuffing and frying. Male flowers are better suited for stuffing because they have a more open structure. However, toward the middle of the season, using female flowers for cooking is a good way to control your overly abundant harvest. Zucchini flowers can be sauteed with eggs for an omelet or tucked with cheese into tortillas for a delicious quesadilla. They can be dipped into a simple batter and fried, or stuffed with mozzarella for a more filling appetizer.
Suitable for any summer squash, this is a particularly effective presentation when you combine different colors of squash.
GRILLED ZUCCHINI
6 medium zucchini, green and/or yellow
Coarse salt
1/4 cup olive oil
5 large fresh basil leaves
3 cloves garlic, peeled and slivered
Freshly ground pepper
Trim ends of zucchini. Cut lengthwise into 3/8-inch thick slices. Sprinkle slices with coarse salt and let drain on paper towels 30 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels. Arrange slices on baking sheet. Brush lightly with olive oil.
Place zucchini under preheated broiler close to source of heat. Grill on both sides until zucchini slices are golden brown, occasionally basting with olive oil. (Or cook on outdoor grill by placing them directly on oiled grill.)
Layer cooked zucchini in wide, shallow serving dish. Tear basil leaves and scatter with slivered garlic over each layer. Season to taste with salt and pepper and moisten with olive oil. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before serving. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Small round summer squash lend themselves to stuffing. We present here a sophisticated risotto stuffing, but you can prepare a more simple stuffing of breadcrumbs, herbs, and the summer squash flesh.
SUMMER SQUASH STUFFED WITH VEAL RISOTTO
6 to 8 pattypan squash or round zucchini
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon oil
1 onion, minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 pound ground veal
2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves, crumbled
Coarse salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup arborio rice
1/2 cup half and half
1 1/2 to 2 cups chicken broth
Cut off stem end from each pattypan squash in 1 thin slice and reserve. With melon baller, scoop out insides from each squash, being careful not to cut into skin and keeping shells intact. Reserve squash pulp. Drop squash shells and tops into abundant amount boiling salted water in large pot. Blanch briefly, 1 to 2 minutes, and refresh under cold running water. Drain in colander, then on paper towels.
Coarsely chop reserved squash pulp. Heat butter and oil in medium skillet over low heat. Saute squash, onion and garlic until squash is tender. Add ground veal, stirring to break up meat. Add thyme and season to taste with salt and pepper. Saute until veal is nearly cooked.
Add rice to skillet and saute until grains glisten and become slightly opaque, 2 to 3 minutes. Add half and half and stir over low heat until all liquid is absorbed. Stir in 1 1/2 cups chicken broth. Cover and simmer over low heat until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender but slightly resistant to bite. (Check frequently, adding more broth if necessary.) Adjust seasonings to taste. Cool to room temperature. Remove thyme if using sprigs. Generously stuff each squash shell with rice mixture. Set stem slice atop each squash. Serve as a side dish or as component in antipasto. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
This puree shouldn’t be completely smooth--the uneven texture lends character. If you enjoy pressure canning, the puree makes a perfect savory “jam” to give as gifts later in the year. It also adds great flavor and color to a simple risotto or pasta.
BRUSCHETTA WITH ZUCCHINI PUREE
Extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 small onion, peeled and chopped
2 medium zucchini, washed, ends removed and coarsely sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
6 to 8 fresh basil leaves
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 thick slices Italian bread
1 to 2 cloves garlic, left whole, peeled
4 to 6 sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and cut into strips
Gently heat 1/4 cup olive oil in small saute pan. Add onion and saute until tender and translucent. Add zucchini, minced garlic, basil and parsley. Cover pan and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until zucchini falls apart completely. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Grill or lightly toast bread slices. Rub each with whole peeled garlic cloves and drizzle with olive oil. Spread coarse zucchini mixture on grilled bread. Garnish with sun-dried tomatoes. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
The simplicity of this snack belies its beauty. All squash yield rich orange flowers that are lovely when peeking out from a golden batter. For this reason they make beautiful garnishes. What follows is the simplest method for deep-frying zucchini flowers.
We present two batter recipes . The basic batter produces a slightly denser and crisper coating; the beer-based batter is a little lighter and flakier. For a nice variation, try adding some chopped fresh herbs to the batter. Or stuff the flowers with a small piece of anchovy and or mozzarella before dipping in batter.
FRIED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS
20 to 25 zucchini flowers, with stems attached
Pure olive oil
1 recipe Basic or Beer Batter
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme or parsley, or 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves
Salt
Carefully reach inside flowers and pinch out and discard stamens. Wash flowers or brush off any loose dirt or insects. Shake off excess water.
Pour 2 inches olive oil in heavy-bottomed small saucepan. Heat olive oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Holding flowers by stem, dip in Basic or Beer Batter mixed with thyme and quickly place in hot oil. Do not crowd pan. Turn flowers as they cook. Remove with slotted spoon or tongs when golden and well-fried on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt before serving. Serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Basic Batter
3/4 cup flour
1/2 cup water
Place flour in small bowl. Slowly pour water into bowl, whisking rapidly to achieve smooth batter. Let batter stand 10 to 15 minutes until consistency of whipping cream.
Beer Batter
1/2 cup flour
2/3 cup beer
Follow same directions as Basic Batter recipe.
This light pasta dish exemplifies the simple yet satisfying spirit of the Italian kitchen. The matchsticks of green and yellow zucchini are striking against the grooves of corkscrew-shaped fusilli.
FUSILLI CON ZUCCHINI E BASILICO
2 small, firm green zucchini
1 small, firm yellow zucchini or crookneck squash
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
4 to 5 cloves garlic, chopped
6 fresh basil leaves, chopped
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 pound imported fusilli
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Cut green and yellow zucchini julienne by slicing each squash lengthwise into 4 long strips. Place strips, one on top of the other and cut horizontally into very thin strips.
Combine butter and olive oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Heat until butter melts and foam begins to subside. Add garlic and saute until garlic becomes opaque. Add zucchini and basil. Cook over medium-high heat until zucchini is tender and some pieces are golden brown, about 7 minutes. (Do not overcook.)
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook pasta in abundant boiling salted water until al dente. Quickly drain and place in shallow serving bowl with zucchini and all cooking juices. Gently toss pasta and serve immediately. Pass Parmesan cheese. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
The secret to making good dumplings is to keep a small pot of simmering water ready to test the dumplings as you make the mixture. You can make adjustments in the amount of flour if necessary. Dumplings are affected by the dampness or dryness of the weather.
GNOCCHETTI-RICOTTA DUMPLINGS
4 small zucchini, ends trimmed
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
10 fresh basil leaves
1 1/4 pounds ricotta, drained
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 1/2 cups flour, about
8 tablespoons unsalted butter
15 fresh sage leaves
Place zucchini, garlic and basil in saucepan with small amount boiling water. Steam until tender, then puree in food processor fitted with steel blade.
Combine zucchini-garlic puree, ricotta and 1 cup Parmesan cheese in small bowl, mix until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add 1 cup flour and mix with wooden spoon. Work in more flour, 1/2 cup at time until batter becomes doughy. Knead lightly with hands. Add enough flour to create soft dough that holds shape when cooked.
Take 1 heaping teaspoon dough and gently roll with floured hands to oval shape. Bring to boil large pot salted water over high heat. Reduce heat so water barely simmers. Drop gnocchetti gently into simmering water. Cook until they float to surface.
Remove with slotted spoon and drain thoroughly by letting spoon rest few seconds on absorbent kitchen towel. Place on warm serving platter. Melt butter with sage leaves in skillet over medium heat. Pour bubbling hot melted butter and sage leaves over gnocchetti. Garnish with additional Parmesan cheese. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
