Apples : Getting to the Core of the Matter: Apple Pastry

Although apples are available throughout the year, baked apples in pastry tend to be made in autumn, when the fruit is just harvested and temperatures begin to cool.

A box of pie crust mix or basic pastry for a two-crust pie is sufficient to encase four large apples. Prepare according to package or recipe directions, form into a flat round, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Blend the brown sugar, cinnamon, nuts, raisins and butter together in a small bowl. Set aside.

Core the apples (Step 1), then pare (Step 2) and brush with lemon juice (Step 3). Spoon the brown sugar mixture into the hollow centers (Step 4).

Divide the pastry into quarters. Roll each into a 7 1/2- to 8 1/2-inch square, depending on the size of the apples being used. Trim the edges with a pastry wheel (Step 5), using a ruler as a guide.

Place an apple in the center of each square. Brush the pastry edges lightly with beaten egg, then bring each corner of the square to the top of the apple (Step 6). Pinch the edges of the pastry together firmly so the apple is completely covered.

Reroll the trimmings and cut 16 leaves, using a nontoxic leaf as a guide (Step 7). Brush one side of each leaf with beaten egg, then press four leaves on top of each pastry-wrapped apple (Step 8). Insert a whole clove into the center of each pastry.

Brush the pastry completely with beaten egg and arrange in a greased baking pan. Bake at 425 degrees 40 minutes, or until the pastry is browned and apples are tender when tested with a wood pick.

Tart-flavored apples have a higher acid content and are often preferred for cooking. Large or medium-large fruit that holds its shape well is best for baking whole. The following varieties--some available throughout the country, others only in the regions where they are grown--are good choices:

Cortland--Cross between McIntosh and Ben Davis varieties. Medium to large, slightly flat, with skin that is thick, smooth and glossy. Color is deep red on the face with red-splashed stripes on the less colored, green-yellow side. Flesh is white, semi-firm, fine-grained, crisp, tender, juicy, mildly acid and aromatic. Sweet-tart flavor. Grown mainly in New York, New England, Ohio, Michigan, Pennsylvania and Wisconsin. Harvested October to November.

Golden Delicious--Medium to large with yellow-green to golden yellow tender skin that may be shiny, velvety or russeted. Flesh is white, often with yellowish tinge, crisp, tender, fine-grained, juicy, moderately low acid, mildly aromatic. Sweet flavor. Grown mostly in Washington, Appalachia and the Midwest. Harvested from September into November.

Granny Smith--Medium to large, green-skinned. The flesh is creamy white and crisp. Moderately tart flavor. Grown on the West Coast. Also imported from Australia and New Zealand. Alternate growing seasons make this variety available most of the year.

Gravenstein--Medium to large, slightly flattened. The thin skin is tender, slightly rough and greenish-yellow, overlaid with broken stripes of light and dark red. Flesh is whitish-yellow, firm, moderately fine, crisp, moderately tender, juicy, medium acid and aromatic. Tart flavor. Grown mainly in California, but also in New England and Appalachia. Harvested July into September.

Newtown Pippin--Also called Pippin. Medium to large with rather tough skin, smooth to slightly rough, green to greenish-yellow, often slightly russeted. Flesh is slightly tinged with yellow, firm, crisp, moderately fine-grained, juicy, sprightly, medium acid and highly aromatic. Tart flavor. Grown almost exclusively in California and Oregon. Harvested September to November.

Northern Spy--Large to very large with thin skin that is smooth, glossy, pale green ground color mottled or splashed with bright pinkish-red. Flesh is yellowish, firm, moderately fine-grained, crisp, tender, juicy, medium acid and aromatic. Sweet-tart flavor. Produced mainly in Michigan, New York and parts of New England. Harvested in late October and early November.

Rhode Island Greening--Medium to large, with thick skin that is smooth, yellow or greenish and more or less mottled with red or carmine. Flesh is nearly white with a slight tinge of yellow or green, firm, moderately fine-grained, crisp, juicy, slightly aromatic, with medium acid. Moderately tart flavor. Grown primarily in western New York, but also in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Harvested in October.

Rome Beauty--Medium to large, almost spherical. The thick skin is smooth, red, but sometimes variegated with greenish-yellow stripes. Flesh is nearly white with a slight tinge of yellow or green, firm, moderately fine-grained, rather crisp, juicy, slightly aromatic, with medium acid. Mild flavor. Grown in almost all apple production areas. Harvested September to early November.

Stayman--Medium to large. The smooth, rather thick skin is deep red mixed with carmine. White flesh sometimes tinged yellow or slightly greenish, firm, moderately fine-grained, tender, crisp, juicy, aromatic, with medium acid. Sweet-tart flavor. Grown in New Jersey, Delaware, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia and West Virginia. Harvested September to November.

Winesap--Small to medium, rounded with thick, tough skin that is smooth, glossy, deep red, although sometimes the blush appears to be splashed over a yellow/green ground color. Flesh is tinged with yellow and sometimes has red veins. Firm, rather coarse texture, moderately crisp, juicy, medium acid, with a spicy aroma. Slightly tart, wine-like flavor. Grown mostly in the Northwest. Harvested October into November.

York Imperial--Medium to large, lopsided shape. The thick skin is bright, smooth, green but often blushed to solid red or pinkish-red, sometimes with pale dots. Flesh is yellowish, firm, crisp, slightly coarse, moderately juicy, somewhat aromatic, with medium acid. Mildly tart flavor. Grown in the Appalachian fruit district.

BAKED APPLES IN PASTRY

1 (11-ounce) package pie crust mix

1/4 cup brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons chopped nuts

2 tablespoons raisins

1/4 cup butter, softened

4 large baking apples

Lemon juice

1 egg, beaten

4 whole cloves

Half and half or vanilla ice cream

Prepare pie crust mix according to package directions. Form into flat round, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate 30 minutes.

Blend brown sugar, cinnamon, nuts, raisins and butter together in small bowl. Set aside.

Core apples, then pare and brush with lemon juice. Spoon brown sugar mixture into hollow centers.

Divide pastry into quarters. Roll each into 7 1/2- to 8 1/2-inch square, depending on size of apples. Trim edges with pastry wheel.

Place apple in center of each square. Brush pastry edges lightly with beaten egg. Bring each corner of square to top of apple. Pinch edges of pastry together firmly so apple is completely covered.

Reroll trimmings and cut 16 leaves, using nontoxic leaf as guide. Brush 1 side of each leaf with beaten egg and press 4 leaves on top of each pastry wrapped apple. Insert clove into center of each pastry.

Brush pastry completely with beaten egg. Arrange in greased baking pan. Bake at 425 degrees 40 minutes, or until pastry is browned and apples are tender when tested with wood pick. Serve warm with half and half or ice cream. Makes 4 servings.

Note: If desired, basic pastry for 2-crust pie may be substituted for pie crust mix.

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