A Guide to the Best of Southern California : FOOD : Not All Popcorn Is for Popping

LITTLE COULD the Indians have imagined the consequences of their introduction of popcorn at the first Thanksgiving feast. American as apple pie, popcorn is not only a wholesome and economical food, it’s also one of the hottest snack items of the past decade. Today, Americans consume more than 13.9 billion quarts of the stuff.

But not all popping corn is for popping. Mallard Pond Farms in Boulder, Colo., grows a limited quantity of red and white popcorn--specially blended, then ground in a large hammer mill to produce a unique, fine-grained popcorn flour. Gluten-free, the flour ($6.50 for a 16-ounce can) has a rich, nutty flavor and a pretty pinkish cast from its red kernels. The flour can be used as breading, in cookies or as a cornmeal substitute. Mallard Pond Farms, 746 Mallard Pond Drive, Boulder, Colo. 80303. Or telephone (800) 533-CORN.