The Italian Way With Pumpkin Pie

Crostata di Zucca is quite different from American pumpkin pie, but it uses the squash in a similar manner, as a background for other flavors. Nick Malgieri includes this recipe from the Po Valley in his book “Great Italian Desserts” (Little, Brown & Co., 1990: $19.95) and demonstrated preparing the “pie” during a recent visit to The Times Test Kitchen.

Italian sweet pastry dough, or pasta frolla, forms the crust. Unsalted butter is rubbed into the flour, sugar and salt, then the mixture is moistened with an egg. After kneading it briefly, the dough is refrigerated at least an hour, or until firm.

Roll the chilled dough out on a lightly floured surface (Step 1) to a disk about 14 inches in diameter. Fold the dough in half (Step 2) and fit it into a buttered 9-inch round cake pan. Press the dough well against the bottom and sides (Step 3) of the pan, then trim the edges (Step 4) even with the rim.

The recipe filling calls for two pounds of fresh sugar pumpkin. Malgieri said hubbard squash, acorn squash or sweet potatoes may be substituted, but he does not recommend the standard jack-o’-lantern type of pumpkin because the flesh is too watery. Canned solid-pack pumpkin may also be used.

Salt, sugar, cinnamon and eggs are added to the pumpkin pulp, then a mixture of ground almonds and cornmeal (Step 5). Candied orange peel is another ingredient that sets this filling apart from its American relative.

The filling is spooned into the crust, then the top edge is folded inward (Step 6) to make a border about 1/2-inch wide. Bake until the filling is set and the crust light golden.

After cooling, remove the crostata from the pan. Store loosely covered at room temperature.

This dessert has a denser filling and is not as sweet as our traditional pumpkin pie. The edge may be dusted with powdered sugar, if desired.

CROSTATA DI ZUCCA (Pumpkin “Pie”)

1 1/4 cups flour

Granulated sugar

Salt

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 eggs

1 fresh sugar pumpkin, about 2 pounds, or 1 (1-pound) can solid-pack pumpkin

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 cup almonds, ground

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1/2 cup candied orange peel

1/4 cup melted unsalted butter

Powdered sugar, optional

Combine flour, 1/4 cup granulated sugar and 1/8 teaspoon salt in medium bowl, mixing well. Rub in 5 tablespoons butter until absorbed, making sure mixture remains cool and powdery, not pasty.

Beat 1 egg and stir into flour mixture with fork. Continue stirring until dough holds together, then knead briefly, just until smooth. Shape into disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 1 hour or until firm.

If using fresh pumpkin, cut into 2-inch dice, scrape away filaments and peel off skin. Steam pumpkin over simmering water about 40 minutes, until tender.

Puree pumpkin in blender or food processor fitted with metal blade. Cool. (If puree is excessively watery, cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat, preferably in non-stick pan, to dry out before cooling.)

Measure 2 cups pumpkin puree into large mixing bowl. Whisk in 2/3 cup granulated sugar, cinnamon and remaining 2 eggs, one at time. Combine almonds and cornmeal and stir into pumpkin mixture.

Place candied orange peel in strainer, rinse under running water and chop finely with sharp knife. Oil blade of knife to prevent sticking to peel. Stir chopped peel into filling, then fold in melted butter.

Roll dough out on floured surface to disk about 14 inches in diameter. Fold disk of dough in half and fit into buttered 9-inch round, 2-inch deep cake pan. Press dough well against bottom and sides of pan and trim edges of dough even with top of pan.

Add filling and spread evenly. Filling will be about 1/2-inch lower than top of pan. Fold excess dough at rim inward, over filling, to make border about 1/2-inch wide at edge.

Bake in lower third of oven at 350 degrees 45 minutes or until filling is set and dough is light-golden color. Cool crostata in pan on wire rack.

When cool, place flat plate or pan on top of crostata and invert. Lift off baking pan and replace with platter. Invert again and remove top plate or pan. Keep crostata loosely covered at room temperature.

Dust edges with powdered sugar before serving. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Note: Hubbard squash, acorn squash or sweet potatoes may be substituted for sugar pumpkin, if desired.