Lula Is Off to a Good Start

Lula is just what you might expect from a hip new beach restaurant. The mood is casual, the walls are colorful, the waiters are cheerful and the beer comes cold--a six-pack at a time in pails of ice.

The food is a ‘90s version of California-Mexican, which means soft tacos instead of hard, queso fundido instead of nachos, corn pudding with roasted tomatoes and chipotle chiles, green-corn tamales, Norwegian salmon with mango salsa and, of course, good old guacamole.

The chef is Gerri Gilliland, known for her Irish food at Gilliland’s, down the street from Lula. Is she as skilled with tortillas as she is with potatoes?

Not yet, but she’s off to a good start. Lula, 2720 Main St., Santa Monica, (213) 392-5711. Entrees $6.95-$10.95.