DATELINE: CUBA : THE MYSTERIOUS ISLAND, THEN AND NOW

Havana, 1933:

Amid an economic crisis, President Gerardo Machado, a corrupt politician who had been elected nine years earlier, was forced to flee the country in August when a national strike was called. When a provisional government collapsed after 100 days, an Army sergeant named Fulgencio Batista (right), with U.S. backing, maneuvered to take over.

Havana, 1991:

Workers spent the final hours before the opening of the Pan American Games not only putting finishing touches on the sports venues, but also rewiring and repainting the neon billboard that greets visitors approaching the city from the west on El Malecon, the highway that runs alongside Havana Bay.

On the sign, a frustrated, frazzled Uncle Sam stands on an island, presumably one of the Florida Keys, separated by water from another piece of land, where a defiant, young, vital Cuban soldier in green fatigues and a beret warns him:

“Senores Imperialistas, No Les Tenemos Absolutamente Ningun Miedo.” Translation: “Imperialists, We Have No Fear of You.”

The other side of the billboard, also in neon, says: “Mi Onda Es La De David.” Translation: “My Slingshot is David’s.”

Although that billboard stands out because of its bright electric embroidery and strategic location, one can hardly walk for five minutes in Havana without seeing a sign containing a political slogan.

But despite constant reminders that Yanquis are the enemy, there has been virtually no tension between U.S. citizens here for the Games and Cubans. It would be nice to have a peso for every Cuban who has said during conversations the past 10 days that his quarrel is with the government in Washington, not the American people.

Besides, as one Cuban reporter said: “We no longer notice the slogans; those are for tourists.”