DATELINE: CUBA : THE MYSTERIOUS ISLAND, THEN AND NOW

Havana, 1952:

The Orthodox Party organized the masses and appeared on the verge of winning the election. One of the party’s young members was recently graduated lawyer and student radical Fidel Castro Ruz, a 26-year-old son of an Oriente plantation owner. To prevent the Orthodox Party from assuming control of the government, Fulgencio Batista, on March 10, seized power in a coup and imposed a dictatorship.

Havana, 1991:

The Americanization of Cuba, some examples:

--A couple of places do sell Coca-Cola. (As well as TropiCola, which has enough sugar in it to make anyone outrun Carl Lewis.)

--Certain restaurants sell a drink called the “Mary Pickford.” (They are just a little behind the times here.)

--A market sells Planters party-pack snacks. (But all the Cheez-Balls are nacho-flavored.)

--Two strolling minstrels asked if we would care to hear something American, then sang Billy Joel’s “Piano Man” in Spanish. (So far, Barry Manilow’s “Copacabana” has been heard only north of Havana.)

--The famous Tropicana dancing girl revue features American ‘50s and ‘60s music. (If they take requests, I’m yelling out: “Blame It on the Bossa Nova!”)

--A bookstore here carries George Burns’ “Gracie,” Elmore Leonard’s “Get Shorty” and Joseph Wambaugh’s “The Golden Orange.” (But nothing, surprisingly, by Kitty Kelley, and no Garfield cat books.)

--I almost kissed a waiter in a steak place who dug up a bottle of A-1 sauce, my first Cuban condiment. (Dear Mom: Having a wonderful time. Send ketchup and mustard.)

--Found a place that takes Diners Club, no questions asked. My first Cuban credit card use. (I think they think I’m Canadian.)

--Still, none of my new Cuban acquaintances understood at the baseball game when I did my Harry Caray impersonation. (“Hey! They’re here today from Haiti!”) And nobody got it when I said my favorite Cuban game show hostess was Havana White.