GARDENING : Pick Foliage Over Blooms for Houseplants
If you are just starting with house plants or have not done too well previously, stick to those grown for their foliage. Flowering types are more difficult.
Foliage plants include philodendrons, dieffenbachias, palms, rubber plants (ficus) and dracaenas. They are durable characters. One ( Aspidistra elatior ) even is nicknamed the “cast-iron plant.”
But, whether grown for foliage or flowers, watering is likely to be the main difficulty. More indoor plants probably die from over-watering than everything else combined. They do need water to survive and grow. Determining how much is an art, so don’t try to water on a timetable or schedule.
An old trick: stick a finger into the soil-mix up to the first knuckle and water only if it feels dry on removal.
It almost always is better to keep the soil-mix on the dry side rather than too damp. This is the basic defense against root rot, the main diseases of indoor plants. Examining and smelling the roots usually pinpoints a root-rot problem.
When you do water plants, take the container to a sink and fill to the brim a couple times, allowing the excess to drain. This will wet the soil-mix thoroughly and flush out excess salts.
If indoor plants are placed in saucers to hold excess drainage, be sure to discard this water or spread enough gravel in the saucer to keep the container out of the water. Otherwise the excess will be reabsorbed.
Keeping indoor plants healthy and in active growth minimizes problems. In general, they do best in rooms that get the most light. Fortunately, many also tolerate low light levels. Few appreciate direct sunlight.
Low humidity can be quite detrimental. Don’t place plants near radiators, heating ducts or fireplaces. Grouping them close together helps increase local humidity.
Before buying a plant, make sure that roots aren’t growing above the surface or out of a pot’s bottom drainage holes. Are leaves brown around the edges, wilted, pale or yellow? Does the foliage seem sparse or leggy? Is there evidence of insect damage?
Those are excellent reasons to make another selection.
Once a new plant is in your home, it needs time to adjust. Give it a soaking in a sink and then set in a cool place for a few days. As a precaution, don’t fertilize for at least a month. Watch for insect problems before adding it to an existing collection.
Don’t be alarmed if a few lower leaves yellow and drop. If more than a few leaves do this, you’re probably over-watering, under-watering or have the plant in too little light. Don’t panic. Experiment with minor adjustments and re-check the plant’s specific cultural needs.
Good references are Alfred Byrd Graf’s “Exotic Plant Manual” or his encyclopedic “Exotica.” While expensive, both should be available at the local library.
Observation is the best guide to fertilizer needs. Begin application of an all-purpose fertilizer when new growth appears. A slow-release fertilizer, such as Osmocote, is handy and works well. Never exceed label directions.
Use a soft, damp cloth to freshen and clean leaves every month or so. This can be quite important. Dust and grime interfere with normal leaf functions. In most cases, a commercial potting mix simplifies things. But it may be necessary to try several to find one that works best under your conditions. Good drainage and water retention are essential.
For minimum indoor culture problems, try these first:
Aspidistra, the cast-iron plant--useful in low-light situations, keep barely moist.
Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen)--flourishes for years in a dark part of a room. Moderate water.
Beaucarnea recurvata (bottle palm)--a durable, tree-like succulent that likes some direct sun. Water sparingly.
Dieffenbachia-- spectacular foliage plants quite tolerant of house conditions. Needs medium light. Roots and bases of canes rot quickly from over-watering. Leaves and stems are toxic.
Dracaena-- notable for the differing shapes and colors among family members. D. marginata (Madagascar dragon tree) is a favorite of decorators and tolerant of low light. Keep on dry side. The Hawaiian ti plant (Cordyline terminalis), a relative, likes some direct sun and high humidity.
Ficus (rubber plants)--very ornamental in various shapes and sizes. Prefers bright conditions but not direct sunlight. Water thoroughly and then wait for surface to dry.
Philodendron-- family members range from small-to-large leaf varieties and do well under air conditioning. Likes maximum light but not direct sun. Keep moist. Usually needs staking.
Sansevieria trifasciata (snake plant)--low-light requirements, best kept on dry side.
Scindapsus (Pothos or Rhapidophora)-- similar appearance to their philodendron relatives but more colorful and need less water. Good light but not direct sun. Loves warmth, low humidity.
Under optimal conditions, some foliage plants may produce flowers indoors.
