Cumin Acumen

Cumin is one of those spices that I frequently reach for during the winter when a hearty dish needs a quick dash of flavor. It’s an ancient spice, dating back to Old Testament times, and has a robust, aromatic character.

Fine-tuning is the key. In small amounts, cumin is the kind of spice that develops the flavor of delicate vegetables or even chicken soup without itself being detected. On the other hand, too much cumin can easily overwhelm all the other ingredients in a dish.

It’s available both whole (the dried seeds of a plant belonging to the parsley family) and ground. Like other seeds, herbs and spices, cumin should be stored in a cool, dark drawer or cupboard (not over the stove) and checked after several months for potency. This can be easily discerned by tasting a pinch of it or checking its aroma. Replace it when it begins to fade; one of cumin’s charms is its unmistakable power.

Ground cumin is used in each of the following recipes. If you’re hesitant about using it, start with less and add it to suit your own taste.

A practical word about a spice as pungent as cumin: It makes cooking without much fat more tolerable. In fact, the fat is hardly missed. You might also notice that cumin is much more intense in cold food--its flavor mellows significantly once the food is heated.

Recipes similar to this corn bread are usually loaded with fat and cheese. Here, the cheese is used only where it counts--right on the top. The cumin and the texture of the bread itself make it very satisfying. Serve the bread warm, in wedges, aside spicy broiled chicken or black beans with diced red and green peppers. Sauced with chili, the bread makes a great one-dish supper with salad on the side.

WARM BUTTERMILK CORN-BREAD PIE

2 tablespoons unsalted margarine

1 small onion, minced

2 eggs

2 egg whites

1 (17-ounce) can whole-kernel corn, unsalted, drained

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons lowfat (1%) buttermilk

3 tablespoons sugar

1 3/4 teaspoons ground cumin

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper

1 cup flour

2/3 cup yellow cornmeal

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

2 small Italian plum tomatoes, shell only, diced 1/4-inch

3 ounces Colby cheese, grated

Heat margarine in small non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion. Saute until tender, about 2 minutes, stirring often.

Combine eggs, egg whites, corn, buttermilk, sugar, cumin, salt and crushed red pepper in large mixing bowl. Add onion mixture. Use wooden spoon to mix well. Add flour, cornmeal, baking powder and baking soda. Stir to combine well. Fold in tomatoes. Generously grease deep 9-inch pie plate or 5 1/2-cup capacity shallow baking dish and lightly sprinkle with cornmeal. Transfer batter to prepared pan.

Bake at 425 degrees in center of oven until bread browns and wood pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 18 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle cheese evenly over entire surface. Bake until cheese melts, about 2 minutes. Let rest 15 to 20 minutes before serving. Serve warm, cut in wedges. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note: Bread may be made several hours ahead and kept at room temperature. Gently reheat in microwave oven on medium (50%) power or in 350-degree oven until just warmed through. Do not overheat.

Each serving contains about:

332 calories; 612 mg sodium; 86 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 51 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; .7 grams fiber; 24% calories from fat.

While the carrots and cumin balance the cauliflower, there’s still a clear cauliflower taste in this soup. Nonfat dry milk gives the soup a creamy consistency without adding cream; I find it a more effective ingredient for this purpose than evaporated skimmed milk. The soup can be made in large quantity; divide the excess soup in meal-sized portions and freeze in plastic zipper lock bags for quick, nutritious meals.

“CREAM” OF CAULIFLOWER-CARROT SOUP

1 tablespoon oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 (1 1/2-pound) head cauliflower, cut in small pieces (stems included)

2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut in small chunks

7 to 8 cups chicken stock or broth

3/4 cup nonfat dry milk

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground nutmeg

Freshly ground black or white pepper

2 large green onions, minced

Heat oil in 4-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add onion, cauliflower and carrots. Cover and cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 5 cups stock, 1/2 cup nonfat dry milk, cumin, salt, nutmeg and pepper. Simmer, covered, until vegetables are tender enough to puree, about 20 minutes.

Strain cooked vegetables, reserving liquid. Puree vegetables in blender or food processor. Add 1 cup vegetable liquid and remaining 1/4 cup nonfat dry milk. Puree until smooth. Transfer mixture back to pot along with remaining reserved vegetable liquid. Add green onions and stir well. Add remaining stock as needed for consistency. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve hot. Makes 12 servings.

Note: Soup may be made ahead and refrigerated 3 days or frozen 3 months.

Each serving contains about:

112 calories; 622 mg sodium; 2 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1 gram fiber; 19% calories from fat.

This is my idea of a perfect fast meal: a baked potato topped with Mushroom Chili, dolloped with light sour cream and sprinkled with sliced green onions. Noodles, instead of potatoes, would work well too. The chili is deliberately intense to counterbalance the starch; it’s not intended to serve as a soup.

MUSHROOM CHILI

2 teaspoons oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 large red onion, minced

1 (16-ounce) can peeled whole tomatoes, pureed with liquid in blender or food processor

1 (8 3/4-ounce) red kidney beans, rinsed and drained

1/4 cup tomato paste

1 1/2 tablespoons chili powder

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1/2 to 3/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon salt

Crushed hot red pepper

8 ounces medium mushrooms, stems trimmed, quartered

4 large baked potatoes

1/2 cup light sour cream

1/4 cup sliced green onions

Heat oil in 1-quart non-aluminum saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and onion. Saute until tender, about 4 minutes. Add tomatoes, kidney beans, tomato paste, chili powder, cumin, oregano, brown sugar, 1/2 cup water, salt and crushed red pepper. Simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes, stirring often.

Add mushrooms and simmer 5 minutes longer, stirring often. Add more water as needed to achieve thick (not soupy) consistency. Adjust seasonings to taste.

To serve, slash hot potatoes and pinch open. Spoon hot Mushroom Chili over. Dollop with sour cream and sprinkle with green onions. Serve hot. Makes about 11 cups or 4 servings.

Note: Chili may be made ahead and refrigerated 3 days or frozen as long as 3 months. Reheat gently.

Each serving contains about:

386 calories; 753 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 81 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 4 grams fiber; 10% calories from fat.